Red Bazaar – Christine Wilson

Another brilliant piece from a GUNNAS WRITING MASTERCLASS WRITER  

The first time I saw the snake charmer was in a bazaar in the part of the city they warned us to avoid at all costs. He played his hypnotic melody and the python rose and swayed in time.

The sun was fierce, it was nearly noon and the smell of meat about to turn permeated the marketplace.

There is a Japanese saying that awareness is the key to survival.

I was acutely aware that my money was about to run out and that I had not made any plans other than wanting to be in this place at this time.

I felt for the note in my pocket, recalling the many warnings of pickpockets targeting tourists, and I knew I stood out by my dress and the colour of my skin. The three zeros that followed the number five may have looked promising at first glance, as did the lucky elephant motif on the mauve background, but I knew it was not enough to get me by for much longer.

I couldn’t afford to buy anything, as this was all I had left for food until I could meet up with my travelling companions, who had stayed in the relative safety of the town.

I stopped at a hut where a man was spruiking drinks, which may or may not have been alcoholic. I didn’t care, I just needed something to quench my thirst. As I turned to enter, I felt something brush against my leg and I spun around. Although I couldn’t see anyone, I felt a shiver; suddenly it was cold.

I put my hand into my pocket and the note was gone! In its place was something metallic. I pulled it out and gazed at a red sequined hair scrunchie.

This did not belong to me, my hair is cropped short and spikey.

I began to panic, but as I felt the tiny spheres and marveled at their ruby colour a wave of happiness spread over me. I looked around for the donor-thief, but the bustling crowd made seeking him out as impossible as paying for a drink.

I rejoined the throng, until finally I reached a space where the stalls blended into shanty-studded laneways.

The sun blazed and my shirt was dripping with sweat. I could hear the vague lilt of the snake charmer’s spell, then time seemed to stand still and the only sound was the ringing in my ears, as the sky exploded and the sun was nothing but a dirty orange splodge behind the clouds of smoke, ash and debris that filled the air.

There were people lying prone and bleeding in the dust, and others were running in my direction, away from the bazaar. They were screaming, I could tell by their open mouths and anguished faces, but I could hear nothing. It was almost impossible to breathe. I was aware of a tugging on my sleeve and a child of about ten beckoning me to follow her.

She wove in and out of the sea of panic, all the time turning to make sure I was still in sight. Eventually she stopped and waited in front of a ragged, tent-like building. Taking my hand, she led me inside. The last thing I can remember was the array of coloured sequins, which hung from the beams like rainbows.

 

 

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About my mother – Carolyn Alexander

Another brilliant piece from a GUNNAS WRITING MASTERCLASS WRITER  

My mother must have been 24 when she married. I know this because the date is inscribed in her wedding ring, which later became mine. She was barely 30 when her husband, her four-year-old son, her baby daughter, father and brother were killed in a head-on accident near Barham, on a straight stretch of road on a fine afternoon. My mother was holding the baby girl. It was the 1950s in the days of bench seats in cars and no seatbelts. They were returning from an Anzac Day picnic. Her father was driving when they hit a drunk driver coming the other way. My mother woke up in hospital and asked where her family were. The nurse said they were all dead.

I think of that scene sometimes. The nervous nurse. My sedated mother. Coming out of her shock and with barely a scratch. Her mother had also been in the accident and was in another part of the country hospital, quietly fighting for life with half the top of her head missing.

Months later, my mother and grandmother finally out of hospital, they holed up at home. Friends and neighbours delivered food. They couldn’t face seeing anyone else. Eventually the town GP came to visit and insisted that my grandmother go back to playing golf, and that my mother go back to work. She’d given up working in the bank when she got married. My mother said she never forgot the first time they walked down the street. Everyone that saw them stopped to stare.

Years went by and my mother eventually met my father. He was a farmer, a kind and empathetic man who said he didn’t mind when my mother said she couldn’t face having children again. He understood. He was happy to have her. But a few years later my sister came along, and then me. Every Anzac Day, on the anniversary, my mother would take to her bed and wouldn’t come out. My father shooed us away and said she had a migraine, but my sister and I knew it was the day of mourning and didn’t complain. We had known the story of the accident for as long as we could remember. A framed portrait of the curly haired boy, a cherub named Andrew, hung on my parent’s bedroom wall. There were no photos to frame of the baby girl, Merrilee. I tried not to think of my mother’s sadness. Without the death of these children, my sister and I would not have lived.

Years later my mother died from cancer, after a life long with laughter and friendship and sadness and regret, a divorce from my father, hard years on the farm and then illness that scared her and made her weak and thin. I was in her country town, visiting the graves of the people I’d never known but felt like I had, going through council records and microfiche at the library, reading about the accident, trying to bring closure. I was taking a while on the microfiche, and could see an old man waiting to use it. I apologised and said I wouldn’t be long. He asked what I was doing and I told him a little. He probed further and then revealed that he had been best friends with my mother’s brother, the nine-year-old who had died in the accident. He had been in scouts with John.

This man had been at the funeral, a service for all five, held in a local church. He was with all the other scouts, dressed in uniform. It was the biggest funeral the town had ever seen. Over 1000 attended, spilling outside the church. There were 350 floral tributes. More than 200 cars followed the five coffins to the cemetery. John’s teachers and headmaster carried his coffin. The old man remembered the day of the accident, when every ambulance in town had gone screaming down the main street and he knew something terrible had happened. He said John was very smart and an excellent swimmer. I realised it was the first I knew anything about him. He still had a bracelet that John won in a swimming competition. He said he would post it to me. Six weeks later the package arrived. There was the bracelet worn by my uncle, my mother’s brother. I held onto it like a sacred item.

It’s been almost 12 years since my mother died and I think about her every day. I always remember her smiling. Despite everything that happened in her life, she always smiled. I remember that about her most of all.

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Lady Horse – Chloe Wilson

Another brilliant piece from a GUNNAS WRITING MASTERCLASS WRITER  

            The first time I turned into a horse it was only from the waist down. I still had arms, then. But my bottom half was unmistakably horse: stippled silver and cream, smooth and glossy. When I was annoyed, my tail – a white-blonde, though I was dark as a pirate – flicked back and forth.

My husband saw what had happened. He looked over the top of his paper while I brewed the tea, circling the leaves in the fat pretty pot, and said: ‘a lady walks with a light step.’

Something his mother says, I’m sure of it.

It was true that my tread was heavier; when I walked down the corridor, the people downstairs hit the ceiling with brooms. There is a Japanese saying: a heavy step means a heavy heart. I do not know that this is true. I never liked my thighs, my calves, when they were slender and quiet. To be honest, I was sorry they came back.

The second time I turned into a horse, only my head remained human. Later that day, I was making dinner for my husband and his friends. They were playing dice around our kitchen table, smoking and throwing down two dollar and five dollar bills as if they were nothing.

‘You are clumsy,’ my husband said, as I tried to bring the food to the table using my teeth. ‘A woman should be graceful.’

The next day, when I woke up a woman, I waited until my husband had left for work and then made droppings in our garden. It seemed a more pleasant way of undertaking the task. Besides, by then I had become used to it. After I became a horse, I never had trouble loosening my bowels the way I once had. The aperture opened, shut, without effort or resistance.

The woman from downstairs came into the garden to put out her washing and saw me stand up.

‘This does not belong to me,’ I said, gesturing, but she turned back and hung the clean white sheets on her line, where they billowed like sails.

The last time I turned into a horse, it was the middle of the night. I woke and I felt a burning pain which began in my woman’s parts and radiated outwards. Ah yes, I thought. By then it was a familiar sensation. But suddenly, I was very cold. I shivered and my skin shirred and gooseflesh appeared and coarse horse’s hairs began sprouting.

I walked down the hallway to the mirror by the door and oh yes – there was the proof – I was all horse, from mane to fetlock to rump. I breathed hotly and loudly, and my nostrils vibrated and the fringe on the lampshade trembled.

I tried kicking my back legs, and even as the idea of a kick was forming in my mind my rear legs flew backwards and knocked a vase from the mantelpiece. It had been a gift from my mother-in-law. It shattered.

I should sweep that away, I thought. Only I couldn’t.

At that thought, a wave of happiness washed over me. I made my way to the kitchen, disturbing everything as I went. My tail swished – gone was our wedding picture. I shook my head. Down came a decorative clock. With my teeth I opened the cupboard door and found a bag of sugar and tore it open with my lips. I crunched it, spilling sugar everywhere, joyful in my big strong teeth, in the long plush tongue I had grown.

I could see out the kitchen window. The woman from downstairs was outside. She was becoming a peacock. Green and blue feathers were closing in on her face. She nodded a greeting and I nodded back.

My husband appeared in the kitchen, mussed from sleep.

‘You mustn’t do this’, he said.

I ignored him.

He stepped forward then and slapped my rump. I continued to ignore him. He slapped it again. There was a sharp sting that went through me each time but he kept slapping and slapping and down went my ears and I stamped my hooves and my skin prickled with irritation.

But my husband doesn’t know much about horses. He doesn’t know what a slap will make us do.

He slapped and slapped, and he would not stop, until finally I lifted my nose from the sugar, and obeyed him, and started to run.

 

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Wanderer, there is no path, the path is made by walking – Antonio Machado

Another brilliant piece from a GUNNAS WRITING MASTERCLASS WRITER  

Despite weeks of both sad pleading and angry protestations from the man I loved for the past six years, I am leaving. To deflect blame in this situation would be easy, and whilst potentially offering some level of bleak satisfaction, I find smug righteousness ultimately personally diminishing. Now is not the time for reflection on what has been. Quite simply, there is no longer sufficient space between us to allow enough air to keep the flames of intimacy and solitude in balance.

For months I’ve been engaged in an internal bloody mess of a wrestling match, lurching from one extreme emotion to another in an exhausting yet futile attempt to separate the “I” from the “we”.  Driven by a deep, urgent need to disentangle myself, I am stifled now by what once provided fulfilment.

With no clear sense of who I am, I am in a state of constant annoyance. Ask me to tell you about myself, and after much umming and ahhing, I’ll awkwardly produce assorted adjectives I’ve heard others use to describe me, list a few mundane accomplishments; a muddled resume of sorts.
In fact, I realise I’m brimming over with an anger, seeping through the cracks, becoming entirely and uncomfortably visible. What I once thought of as solid ground, an impermeable sense of self, has crumbled beneath me. I’m stamping my feet so heartily, I’ve broken it from within.

Now, amidst the roaring in my ears, how do I hear myself?

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Wave after wave – Bec

Another brilliant piece from a GUNNAS WRITING MASTERCLASS WRITER  

The first time I saw Hong Kong was 1993. I touched down that day after 12 weeks in Thailand. A brief stopover before I returned home.

I looked down at the black band circling my wrist and smiled. It was a symbol from my past, my today and my future. A simple black band. Wound round my wrist in a juvenile attempt to claim me by the body that housed one half of the group of cells that would soon be life partner – at least for the next 18 or so years. My body flushed at the thought of the body of the man-boy and our brief inappropriate affair.

There is a Japanese saying that says “be careful what you wish for, it might just come true”. Here in another Asian country, I reflected on the power, the fear and the beauty behind that idiom.

As the bundle of cells multiplied that little bit more, no longer doubling or tripling in a matter of seconds, but rather adding the layers of details that was to become my new baby, I looked up the sun and down at the world. The daisies in the park opposite smiled. The hoi poloi sailed past.

A cloud shadowed the sun, turning the world monochrome, dulling the daisy smiles. My heart started to pound. I feared my arrogance – I do not walk the world boldly enough to deserve this.

At that thought I turned cold. I felt my womb contract, deep, too hard. The contraction wrapped itself up around my heart, clenching it so tight I thought it would smother the beat. I slithered down to the gutter, bringing my knees to my chest, hiding my contorted face from well-meaning citizens.

A wave of horror as I realised what was happening – my baby, that baby that I could never let myself believe was mine, was leaving me already, without once giving me a smile or a restless night.

Wave after wave of contractions, loss, grief and blame were my audience for my mourning walk back to the cheap hotel. I washed away promise and hope in a shared bathroom. In that scolding water, I cried and cried and cried until finally I said goodbye.

When my world turns inward after too many gins, I can admit to myself that you left because I wasn’t brave enough to hold you tight.

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Write First, Clean Second – Hayley Butcher

Another brilliant piece from a GUNNAS WRITING MASTERCLASS WRITER  

This year, particularly in the last few months, the urge to write has been so strong, “write, write, write, write” is a constant whir in my head. When I close my eyes, a big neon sign lights up and says “FOR GOD’S SAKE WRITE SOMETHING” So, this year and particularly in the last few months, my house has been damn fucking clean.

I can’t start writing until I see a smooth clean freshly made bed, a gleaming clear kitchen bench, clothes tumbling in the washing machine. Oh god, I love the smell of jif in the morning. I can’t start writing until the clothes are away, until the cupboards are re-organised, as per instruction from Marie Kondo’s book The Life Changing Art of Tidying Up, until I have reorganized some furniture and fluffed up some decorative cushions on the living room couch. Take a guess at how many words I have written so far? Yeah, none.

“Today, I’ll start writing” but first l’ll clear out all the shit I’ve been hoarding for my entire existence from the spare room and create a modern Scandinavian inspired work space with a beautiful desk, comfortable desk chair, tasteful floor covering and an incredibly impressive fiddle leaf fig tree that I don’t kill. Because I can’t possibly start writing, I haven’t got an inspirational quote above my desk or a piece of abstract art that I painted myself in response to “how the ocean makes me feel” … no, I can’t write a word.

For the first time tonight – I ignored the dirty dinner dishes, half chopped vegetables, cold pasta on the stove, a half sucked mango pip and old coffee cups from the morning screaming “help us, we’re dyyyinnnggg.” I turned a blind eye. I ignored the voice in my head, “maybe just quickly pop those away and wipe down the bench before you write anything”. I walked to the spare room with my nose in the air and opened my computer. “Hmmmm, what are you doing with this room and desk that you don’t use, sure it wouldn’t help you’re writing to clear off this space, what is all this random shit? An old shell from a holiday in Tasmania? Some old scribbled notes? Vacuum cleaner parts, why don’t you use those more? They’d be good for vacuuming the car. Maybe you should go vacuum the car before you start writing? Wait you’re writing? Who are you? You can’t write with that stuff blocking your writer’s flow? There’s nothing Scando about this room at all … you can’t write with all that shit around can you?

Turns out I can and I just did.

Write first, clean second.

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Part Two. More Rome.

I loathe the term ‘my ex’. It has a combination of rejection/repulsion/repelsion (I know, I couldn’t work out the nominalisation for repel so I made it up because fuck the police) and possession. ‘This person and I have rejected each other but we are bound together for eternity’.

I abhor the term ‘marital status’ and the demands that we answer the question even more. Not only is it irrelevant – contact person, yes, marital status, no – all status options are in relation to marriage. Married = yes, divorced = not any more, single = not yet, widowed = DON’T TOUCH ME I’M FINE, separated = fucked if I know what’s going on but I’m still up for flirting. Putting the status back into marital status. Anti-marriage people should ponder the ranking of relationships and how it enables homophobia by meditating on the term ‘marriage status’ just for a jiffy.

So my son’s dad and my former partner Marz turned 60 this year and this time last year he said ‘I’m thinking of taking the boys to Italy for my birthday.’ ‘Great idea!’ I said. I called him back a few minutes later and said ‘Hey, why don’t you take them to Italy and I’ll take them to Ireland?’ He loved the idea but hates organizing travel, luckily his partner and I both love it. So the idea was joked about, spoken about, decided upon and in the spirit of ‘we’re not a blended family we’re a splendid family’ the balls were in motion. Our kids, our partners and a couple of our partners’ kids.

First stop was to hook up in Rome, I’d hand over the boys (Marz and his partner had already been in Italy for a fortnight) we’d all hang out for a couple of days and then Bear and I would do our own thing for a few weeks and afterwards the boys would meet Bear and me in Berlin.

A few years ago the boys all got an overseas trip, The 19yo went on exchange to Japan as a 16yo, the 14yo travelled with Bear and me to London, Paris, Amsterdam and Singapore as an 11yo and the 16yo went to New York with Marz, his partner and her son a few days after his 15th birthday.

When Marz and I were together we travelled a lot in Asia with the boys when they were little. Bali, Lombok, Thailand, Vanuatu, Borneo, Vietnam. It was cheap, hot, there were pools, ice creams, animals and crazy modes of transport through dinky towns, bustling cities, muddy countrysides, rice fields and tropical forests. I was always keen to travel, Marz was keen too but would be the first to admit he’s not the most relaxed traveler.

A week before we all left to Rome the 14yo and I were talking about his highlights of the last European trip and he mentioned the night bike ride through Paris. We are all regular riders so I Googled bike tours in Rome, found REX Bike Tours. We locked in a Rome City night tour (all the sights) the night after we arrived and then the next morning a day tour along the Appian Way.

The weather was perfect and the eight of us rocked up to the Rex office at 5pm where we were met by two devastatingly handsome and charming German-Italian brothers Leopold and Massimo who run the outfit. We hopped on our bikes (under 18s had to wear helmets, for adults optional) and took off with our guide; the blonde, easygoing and informative, Arturo.

We hadn’t planned to do the night bike tour in Paris in 2014. When we landed our mate, Jess, who is a manager of a tour company in Paris suggested it. I always try to ride bikes wherever I am but I had never been on a tour. The night Paris tour with Fat Tire Tours – Paris was one of my all time travel highlights.

If you can ride a bike the first thing you should do when you rock up to a new city is to get on a bike tour. Nothing helps you orient a new city like a bike ride with a tour guide.

You whirl though the streets getting a feel for the layout of the city as you fly in 3D through the space. Buses and walking are too slow for me. I get isolated locations but they don’t really relate with each other. Bike riding is always my perfect speed to experience a new city. I don’t feel like I have ‘got’ the city till I have ridden its streets. Riding feels like a flipbook of the city. I imagine it’s a bit like speed-reading. You can get across the basics really fast and then you can tack back if you want more details.

We did over a dozen stops on those two hours, my ex, our kids, his partner, my partner and his partner’s son. It was a Sunday night so it was chockers but we wove our way in single file as if we were on a piece of string along cobblestone lanes, footpaths, piazzas and busy main roads.

It was a warm autumn Sunday night and the streets were packed with people sucking up the last of the rays of summer. We covered Piazza Navova, century-old back street frescos, a tiny church full of art that had three Caravaggios, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Coliseum… sing along if you know the words.

I can’t explain the euphoria of the warm night, the first day of travel, being in Rome, the relief of finally landing, successful navigation of the trip from home to another country and seeing your kids on bikes on the other side of the world gob-smacked, amazed and finally thinking the horrific 24 hour flight was worth it.

In the same way planning a trip is like circling in from up high, a bike tour where I don’t have to navigate is the reverse; it’s as if I am taking off from ground, slowly finding my feet, the directing of wind and absorbing the lay of the land.

We landed back at the bike tour office and split into the exhausted and jetlagged, who headed straight back home, and the full of beans people up for food. Bear, his son Roo, my 14yo and I ended up at a chaotic joint suggested by Arturo called Pizzeria Montecarlo. The place was jumping, the service was abrupt, the food was delicious and I was quite taken by the signs everywhere telling us we were forbidden to use mobile phones because it interfered with the pizza ovens.

We wandered home buzzing through the warm streets and flopped onto the bed grinning from ear to ear, smug as fuck and amazed at how much we had managed to cover in one day. We didn’t plan to chock it in but go with the flow. And so it flowed. Some days are like that.

I kept reflecting on how happy I was, how lucky we were and how I fucking loved travel. I was constantly aware how our health and fitness was a massive, massive part of the enjoyment of the day. Yes we look after ourselves but you can only do so much. No amount of wellness, self care and physical activity can guarantee being mobile, pain free and mentally well.

When I did the Trans-Siberian express as a 24yo I made a pact with myself to travel as much as I could while my body was able.

As exhilarated as I was by the food, weather, culture, history, exercise, food, laughs (Is this the Paris end of Rome?), all being together on the other side of the world, that sense of achievement you get from successfully accomplishing travel plans, exceeding your wildest expectations and our total lack of jetlag, it was breaking The Marcia Hines Record with my Fitbit total for the day of 38,735 steps (26.73 kilometres) was what had me declare day one on Rome my best travel day ever.

I’ll let Michael Lallo explain what the Marcia Hines Record is in the comments.

No sore feet but a little sunburn. We even managed a shag before we conked out.

 

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Part One. Rome.

Despite the fact I fucking love travel and it’s when I feel the most alive there are many moments the week before a trip like this I ask myself WHAT THE FUCK ARE YOU DOING? The lead up was a week of constant grind; packing, sorting, cleaning and organising threaded through normal work and domestic stuff along with Hugo and Bear’s birthdays and the celebrations that go along with that. I love big projects, one woman shows, writing books, The Love Party etc and I know this is part of the project. When you find yourself saying WHAT THE FUCK WERE YOU THINKING? you know you’re almost there.

Skiing is a perfect example of it. You’re up early, packed and have locked up the house. You get up the mountain which involves hours and an often chains, insane weather, traffic jams, car sickness, navigation rage and frayed nerves. You are then finally at ‘the snow’ which is the closest thing to being on the moon. You trudge to the ski gear hire place scratchy eyed, dry mouthed and in a room that smells of damp and foot odour you are fitted out with heavy cumbersome boots you lug back through the snow to where you are staying, balancing skis and poles over your shoulder and carrying what feels like 15 kilo boots in the other hand with the straps cutting into your fingers. After mashing the accoutrements/weapons/mobility aids into the locker and then wrestling yourself and sometimes children into layers of ski gear you then gather your stocks, skis, gloves, hats, lift passes, phone, goggles and money and finally jam and lock your feet and ankles into heavy boots with steel mouse traps on the soles. It’s at that point I am always huffing and puffing as I stand up facing the snow outside and feel sweat pouring down my back and I haven’t even hit the snow.

My self talk response to WHAT THE FUCK AM I THINKING? is looking around and seeing all the others who have endured the massive ordeal today, over history and to look around at the huge amount of infrastructure built for this ‘fun’ activity. I activate all my amazing memories of skiing and reassure myself no, I am not making them up. Ovary up, push forward and soldier on. And of course, it’s brilliant. After I have reached the Got My Money’s Worth moment the rest of the time I think about what a doddle it all is, wonder why more people don’t do it and start planning the next adventures.

Planning a one month trip involving five countries, ten destinations and 11 people is a little like spinning plates and herding cats while fucking a spider. You circle in from up high, decide to do it, pick the departure and arrival date, book the return ticket tossing up cost with ridiculous departure times, horrifying lay overs, and long flight times. You then slowly fill out the detail until you have flights, transport, accommodation, travel insurance, packing list, house and animals sorted, work on hold and ‘oh shit we probably should sort international drivers licences and FUCK are all our passports valid and JESUS I haven’t even checked if we need visas or not.’

I am an experienced traveller and chaos wrangler so I know not everything will go to plan. Ever. You’ll have good days, shit days, brilliant days and days where the wheels completely fall off and other days when magical things happen. Then there are the mercurial days when the mood flips on the head of a pin. A shit day comes good and an amazing day curdles. The more people involved and the longer the trip the more variables involved. Perhaps that’s why it makes me feel so alive. You can only manage and predict so much. Occasionally trips are shit. Very occasionally the whole trip is a total write off. I have been a very lucky traveller That’s why when I am at that WHAT THE FUCK AM I THINKING? place I remember the ‘I’ve got my money’s worth’ point. That’s the point when everything else is a bonus.

So we all arrived in Rome on Saturday night at 9.30pm. By 1.30pm Sunday I’d reached the I’ve Got My Money’s Worth. By 6pm Sunday I’d decided it was the best travel day of my life.

The motivation behind the trip I’ll explain later but the boys dad Marz picked us all up from the airport in a black Beyonce’s entourage van and after a drink and some antipasto with Marz and his lovely partner in their Airbnb Bear and I were installed in our little apartment over the road. I don’t know what the area was called but we were on Via Guiseppe Ferrari. Despite thinking as we were leaving for the airport from home at 1.30am that a 5am flight was one of my most bananas ideas it was indeed a flash of genius. We hit the sack, slept for 8 hours and woke rip roaring and ready to tear Rome a new one.

Coffee. We started to wander and we weren’t seeing anything I was crazy about but the more we walked the more we were gagging for it. I have a travel rule; never eat anywhere more than once and make every meal count. Bear points to a place with plastic chairs out the front, a bain marie inside and a drinks fridge behind the counter. ‘Here looks good’ to which I responded ‘No fucking way’. We got a whiff of wifi and found a few places nearby, one that had been named one of the top coffee bars in Rome. Sciascia Caffè. I used my patchy Italian to order coffee and a couple of toasted ham and cheese paninis. We absorbed our breakfast as the Romans wafted in and out and then we wandered the empty streets. I have been to Rome before but had forgotten or not realised how beautiful it is. I find the Italian soft air and soft light intoxicating. Rome has a smell too. I can’t describe it. History, coffee and cleaning products.

We wandered for hours through the relatively empty streets and down along the river inhaling the place. The weather was perfect. There was a marathon being run so there were there heaps of hot cops about. Also a LOT of hot young priests. At one stage a well dressed middle aged guy started yelling out of a moving car asking us if we knew where a florist was. He pulled up and we told him we weren’t Italian. He then regaled us with his terrible morning it was his wedding anniversary and his wife (she’s Tasmanian) cried because he hadn’t bought her flowers and the florist near the hotel wouldn’t take American Express and there was a marathon being run so he couldn’t get anywhere because the streets had been blocked off…

He said he was like a manager for Ferrari or something and asked if we had any cash on us. Keep in mind this guy was super well dressed and driving a fairly expensive car. ‘No Euros’ I said ‘just Australian dollars’. ‘Can you give me a hundred? I can go back to the florist she’ll take any cash and if you do I’ll give you this gift.’ He reached onto his passenger side and said ‘You can have this, but you have to promise not to sell it.’ In the padded box was a Ferrari watch, wallet, pen and torch. I had already decided to give the guy my last Australian $50 before he handed over the Ferrari gift box. He sped off telling us we were super nice. We laughed and laughed. There is NO chance this was a rort. Who would come up with such a far fetched scam where they drove up to strangers, asked for foreign currency and then gave them a Ferrari gift box with the word Fancy in gilded letters on the lid of the box.

We decided to go to the Vatican. Bear is a bit crazy for The Young Pope and sometimes he thinks he actually is the Pontiff and makes us call him Holy Father. I checked out what was on at the Vatican and low and behold the Pope was addressing the folks at noon. We rocked up to find, the whole of St Peter’s square surrounded by military and x ray machines. It was impossible to get into the square without the equivalent of an airport security check. Really? What’s with the security? Where’s your all powerful God? So your prayers aren’t working any more.

The square was packed. Il Pappa didn’t address from the usual balcony but from what appeared to be his bedroom with a maroon bath towel with gold letters emblazoned on it hanging out the window. Talk about can’t be fucked. The crowd went wild. I can speak a little Italian and could make out he talked about the sickness of the world a lot. At the end he did a shout out to certain groups in the crowd Romper Room Style ‘Hello to the Sisters Of The Saucepans From Colombia, to the Legion Of Mary from Boston, to the Parish Of The Holy Spirit from Galway….’ As you could imagine the groups he names fully lost their holy shit.

We walked away past the hawkers selling rosary beads, selfie sticks and shorts with the statue of David’s cock printed on them, the beggars and the tour groups. I looked back at the religious metropolis and thought ‘What a fucking rort’.

We passed one of the free drinking fountains you find all over the streets of Rome. I had been hanging out to drink the water. The last time I was in in Rome was 1994 and drinking it was like a magical elixir. Dear god it’s the sweetest water I have ever tasted. We wandered around trying to find a place to lunch. We passed a guy shooting up and dead rat as we raved to each other about how magical and beautiful Rome was.

The place our mate suggested to eat wasn’t open but we stumbled onto a gorgeous very traditional trattoria full of Italian families. We passed tables groaning with food sat down and ordered from a slightly dishevelled waiter our age who managed to understand my pigeon Italian. We were staving. The food and wine arrived and as I demolished the most perfect meal I could have wished for I felt like crying with joy. It was at that moment I thought ‘I’ve got my money’s worth.’

We were wandering back home though the bustling streets full of happy people and sunshine for a nap and a shag when Bear’s son Reuben, his partner and her sister messaged us, told us they were at a place near the Spanish Steps and to come and have a drink. They’d only arrived the day before, so we stumbled in to them in the back streets sitting out the front of a cantina. There was hugs, kisses and little shrieks. Bear was thrilled beyond measure. The joy of having a drink with one of your grown up children who was now a traveller and just rocks up to Rome by their steam when they hear you’re in town.

I have always told my sons everything i have learned has been from travel, working in catering and living with people.

****
Hey! Why don’t you write ME something to read? Come to Gunnas Writing Masterclass
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This disease – Ms B 

Another brilliant piece from a GUNNAS WRITING MASTERCLASS WRITER  

This disease I have

I try to keep it in a box
Lid closed tight
I kick it under the table
The furthest corner
Sometimes I can forget
This disease I have
I try to keep it way down low
Down deeper than memory
Pushed further than tomorrow
I shove it from me and turn my face away
But
This disease I have
Doesn’t try to please
It reveals itself
It makes demands
As self-possessed and pitiless as the weather
This disease I have
Is immune to tears
Relentless
Remorseless
With rules of its own
Is it god?
******
Today is the Day
Today is the day I stop procrastacaring,
There’s now a high risk of verbose oversharing,
With new tools and tips and a freshly kicked arse,
I’m grinning my way through a heartwarming class,
And I’m watering seedlings of little ideas,
And I’m facing up now to some well-hidden fears,
And I’m feeling the stirring of someone I knew,
Some sleeping presence, somebody who
I think I remember and I know that I like,
I’ll find her, she’s waiting down deep in my psyche,
And I’ll bid her a welcome and ask her to stay,
Or at least come each morning – ten minutes a day,
For four days a week, how hard can that be?
(Though wearing a shower cap won’t be for me)
So I’m writing! And soon I shall look back and say,
Thank god that I realised, today is the day.
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Everybody’s On Drugs – Nevena Spirovska

Another brilliant piece from a GUNNAS WRITING MASTERCLASS WRITER  

Most people take drugs. Just ask your kid’s school teacher (pot), financial adviser (coke), or local politician (all of them).

From our morning coffee, to our wind down wine, to the occasional line or puff for a good time. Something so widespread should be considered rather ordinary and unexceptional, given that illicit drug use is a majority experience and the majority of that is unproblematic.

It’s common amongst conventional, successful, and privileged people. And most common amongst rich, university educated young people.

The paper-thin line which separates legal and illicit substances is as confounding as it is cruel; the law deems convicted illicit drug users criminals, so we treat them as such. We use demeaning labels, like ‘junkie’ and ‘deadbeat addicts’, to separate them from the normal people who take drugs.

Applying criminal penalties to people who possess and use drugs causes more much harm than than it prevents. It makes criminals of people who aren’t, leads to the stigmatisation of people who use drugs, and creates barriers to treatment and rehabilitation.

Our government refuses to reshape policy to respond to evidence and statistics, outcries from Alcohol and Other Drug experts, and needless drug related deaths. So what is the basis of our drug policy?

In Victoria alone, there have been four previous amendments to the Drugs, Poisons and Controlled Substance Act 1981 since 2010. Each change claiming to reduce or prevent drug-related harms in the community. And yet there remains no evidence that these interventions have been effective at reducing drug-related harms in the community.

Our drug policy is outrageously flawed, outdated, and it’s dragging down people who use drugs down with it.

Drug use can be safer through standard dosages, transparent labelling and no contaminants.

Drug use can be as positive as it can be by decriminalising and de-stigmatising people who use drugs and addressing the drivers of problematic drug use.

Drug use as can be more ethical by taking drug profits from organised crime to fund services like schools and health care, and promoting personal responsibility among people who use drugs.

Drug use can be more honest if we provide drug and health education that teaches the pleasures and excitement alongside the potential harms of use.

We can advocate that drug use should not be a crime by voting for political parties with a drug law reform policy platform. We can publicly support the idea that drug use should not be a crime, pointing to Portugal as a successful, living model of decriminalisation. We can also donate their time and money to organisations that are fighting against blanket drug prohibition, stigmatisation of people who use drugs, and better drug policy. And most importantly, We should not look down our nose for what people choose to put up them.

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