Category Archives: COLUMNS

All children need is to know they are loved

Repeat after me. All children need is to know that they are loved. Say it every day, have it tattooed on your forehead and write it in the sky. All children need is to know that they are loved.

I was reminded of this as I read a story about a Family Court judge in New Zealand who ruled that a girl named Talula Does The Hula From Hawaii could change her name. Her parents actually named her Talula Does The Hula From Hawaii. The judge then cited examples of children named Midnight Chardonnay, Number 16 Bus Shelter, Violence and twins called Benson and Hedges. Funny? Sure. A bit off topic? Absolutely. But it reminded me yet again that children do not need unusual names to make them special.

They are special. And all they need to know is that they are loved.

Kids don’t need an en suite, computer games, jumping castles, ukulele lessons, bandanas, ironed clothes, matching socks, fancy private schools, trophies, in-ground pools, electric toothbrushes and rooms full of toys.

They don’t need to have a bath every day. They don’t need their own room. It’s OK if they sleep in their clothes and have Weet-Bix for dinner in front of the telly every now and then. Lollies, plastic junk that gets broken underfoot, fancy renovations, junk food and outsourcing parenting are not good ways to love them. Loving them is the only way to love them.

It won’t spoil them. It won’t make them greedy. Loving them will teach them there’s enough to go round and there’s no need to be stingy. Loving children will teach them to love. Withholding love will teach them to withhold.

When I had my first child, I asked people what they did with their second child. There were a lot of uptight first children around and second and subsequent children generally seemed more relaxed. People said things such as happy parents equals happy baby, follow the child and don’t muck about with cloth nappies, just go the disposables. I thought to myself, I’m not going to treat this baby like he’s an only child. I’m going to treat him as if he’s got four brothers and sisters.

When my eldest was four days old, he wouldn’t stop crying. People were getting more and more anxious about trying to stop him crying. Pacing up and down the hall, patting, jiggling. The cries got louder and louder. I was lying on the bed and said: “Give him to me.” I held him and said: “You just cry as long as you want.” Calm descended. Instead of struggling with the reality (thanks to a few champagnes), I went with it. I used this technique many times and although it never stopped a baby from crying, a toddler from whinging, a child from nagging or a bunch of kids from squabbling, it stopped me from struggling with what was happening.

Around the age of 60, people seem to start looking back on their lives. Before then, they were too preoccupied living it. My new theory on parenting is to parent like a grandparent. All the grandparents I know look back on their parenting days and tell me they wish they’d been more relaxed and less controlling. They wish they’d enjoyed it more. Sure, get the homework done, teach them to be kind to each other, to help out and to wait their turn. It just means not going into conniptions when they leave their wet towels on the bathroom floor. It means stopping what you’re doing to give them a cuddle on the couch, tell them a story or lie together on the trampoline looking at the clouds. Just for a moment.

The wisest bloke I know is a cabinetmaker. His name is Michael Clarke. He’s 60 in January and has spent 45 years going into homes installing wardrobes, drawers and bookshelves to help people store their stuff. His wife’s a psychologist. The two of them have spent a great deal of time in other people’s lives and under their roofs. He told me they’ve come to the conclusion, with their vast and varied experience, that the only thing you can do for your kids is to get your own shit together.

When you were a kid isn’t that all you wanted? To know that you were loved and to feel that your parents were trying, and sometimes failing, but at least trying to get their shit together? Is it possible that it really is that simple?

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Part Six. South Of Fucken France Biarritz

There is so little hoo haa about crossing borders in Europe. As an Australian we’re used to multiple hours of plane travel, airports, visas, injections, passport control and palaver as a part of being in another country. On the bus from San Sebastian to Biarritz we only knew we had crossed the boarder into France when our phones sent us updated roaming charges due to changing country. ‘Huh,’ said Bear, ‘We’re in France’.

Jesus fuck remember how incredible it seemed crossing the Murray River and seeing a sign telling us we were no longer in Victoria but now in fucking NEW SOUTH WALES? We’d peer around rubber necked and blinking noting the people looked the same but the licence plates on the cars, the flavored milk brands and the chemist names were different? I was 10 when we went on school camp to Swan Hill and crossed the border into NSW. It was like visiting Narnia. I was certain I ‘felt’ different and the people looked ‘not like us.’ We had to be super careful not to accidently leave an apple in our bags on the way back over the boarder to Victoria because we may inadvertently destroy the entire agricultural system of Australia. WHAT THE FUCK IS FRUIT FLY?

A mate has a story about being a young backpacker 25 years ago in Switzerland driving around with a group of yahoos trying to find a party. They were lost so went into a shop to ask directions only to be told they were actually in Italy not Switzerland. IMAGINE TAKING A WRONG TURN AND BEING IN ANOTHER COUNTRY! NO I FUCKING CAN’T.

We arrived in Biarritz 1ish. I’d never hear of Biarritz before, it was Jess’s idea and to be honest I just go along with anything she suggests because she is a fucking genius. Biarritz. I liked it because it was ‘It’s beer’ backwards. Kinda. Well it’s Biarritz in the way Yoda would say it.

I once spent a week with my mate Caitlin and our seven kids in a place called Toora simply because it was A Root spelled backwards. We spent a week in cabins at a holiday park with a jumping pillow. Every night we barbequed I wore a tee shirt that said I Love My Girlfriend. Towards the end of the trip I discovered if I wore it inside out it said I Hate My Girlfriend. Funny looks. Good times.

Biarritz is in The South Of France. When I think ‘The South Of France’ I immediately think ‘Playground Of The Rich And Famous’. It’s one of those things people drop into conversation and I think ‘They are rich, they are cool, they are cultured’. I had no idea about The South Of France but it sounded like something I was very keen to be able to drop into conversation. ‘Ah yes, South Of France. Bit of a fucking shithole if you ask me. Not as good as Australia FUCKEN LUCKY COUNTRY BEST PLACE IN THE WORLD CUNT’ etc…

So here we were in Biarritz. We wound through the hilly streets and found our Airbnb apartment block. It was old, dinky and the five flights of carpeted stairs had the smell of everyone’s nanas place in the best possible way. Old. Ancient. Full of history and secrets. The apartment was small but perfect. No wifi? No problem. It was just a place to recharge ourselves and our devices. We’re not here to fuck spiders.

We immediately headed down to the main drag for food and beach. We were looking for a joint someone had recommended called Blue something but couldn’t find it so ended up somewhere else. An outside bistro with a view of the beach, a building site and what appeared to be the French version of Cotton On, proof that every country has it’s bogans. We ordered some unmemorable but satisfactory food and I was mesmerized by two French women a few tables away.

They were well dressed women in their 60s out to lunch with their two little dogs. Dogs in restaurants in Europe? I fucking love it. Never understood why in Australia kids and Collingwood supported are allowed in cafes but dogs aren’t.

So these women ordered their food, a glass of wine and every time they put food on their forks both little dogs reached their front paws as closely as they could to their owners knees and stood on their back legs hustling for a morsel. It would have made a great photo but I wasn’t in the right position and I don’t bust my arse to take holiday snaps. There is a line between making an effort to take snaps to jolt your memories and share with your friends and being totally preoccupied with every photo op. I did think ‘Chances are if I’ve seen it once I’ll see it again.’ Didn’t.

After the women finished their lunch and their wine they ordered café gourmand. Café gourmand is your after meal coffee served with three small desserts. Something like a little cake, a mini crème brulee and a macaroon. It’s fucking brilliant. Of course it’s ‘controversial’ in France. Some say the food is poor quality because it’s leftovers; others say coffee should be a thing on it’s own and not diluted by anything else. I LOVE café gourmand because a) I am a guts and b) because I never want a dessert I just want to try everyone else’s. I think there’s a club for that called everyone.

After the French women had finished their lunch, wine and café gourmand (with none of this ‘oooooh I’ll be naughty’, ‘oh I really shouldn’t’, ‘lucky I wore stretchy pants’ annoying boring bullshit, they just ordered, got stuck in and enjoyed), you know what these old French dames did?

Lit up cigars.

Jesus I could have jumped the table and kissed them. Life goals.

We finished our lunch and wandered along the pier for an ice cream and as I licked it strolling along the promenade having a squiz I thought to myself ‘South Of France. I am on the beach in the South Of France’. The ice cream was great. Just the same as Australia but in the South Of France.

The beach with it’s regulation sand, water, sky and attractive nonchalant people reminded me a little of Bondi. As we lay our towels down there was a gorgeous toddler with her ridiculously beautiful parents who was whinging non-stop despite their efforts to appease her. I am not sure why this amused me but I kept thinking, ‘So you’re on a beach in the South Of France with not only perfect weather but your good looking doting parents and you’re still whinging. Fucking humans. AMIRITE?’

We lay our towels down and Bear immediately went to sleep as he does because he is gifted in many ways and the area he is most skilled in is napping. We call it The Austrian Sleeping Syndrome. Jess checked her social media and I read.

The book I was reading was I Am, I Am, I Am by Maggie O’Farrell. I met Maggie on the Trans Siberian Express when I was 25. She was clever and cute and had a ridiculously adorable boyfriend. They had both just graduated from Cambridge and were smart, funny, well-travelled Brits. I am not sure how I found this out but Maggie is now a brilliant and super famous writer. She generally writes fiction but her latest book is a memoir about the 17 times in her life she almost died inspired by her young daughters extreme allergies.

‘O’Farrell’s middle child is eight years old. Since birth, she has suffered extreme allergic reactions between 12 and 15 times a year, one or two of which will tip her into full-blown anaphylactic shock. This book is a literary exercise in normalising the near-death experience.’

Jess asked me what I was reading and I explained the book and how I knew Maggie. I asked if Jess wanted me to read her a chapter. ’That would be great’ she said ‘ I love being read to’ and about three pages in she began to snore.

So I lay soaking up the sun while Bear and Jess slept either side of me. I pondered the magic of reading a book by someone you met travelling while you are travelling and her book not only writes about travelling but mentions the ACTUAL trip where you met.

The toddler had stopped whinging and I watched three women around my age chat non-stop for an hour. They reminded me of my friend Marie-Louise and Genevieve. We holiday on the same beach every year and have made a sport from outstanding beach conversations.

We wandered back to the apartment, dressed for some dinner and headed out to a Basque place called Bar Jean for dinner.

We had only been in Biarritz for a few hours and all three of us had already become enamored with a giant bronze statue at the end of our street of a massive sheila we named Sheila. She was not some majestic or ethereal marble figure but a sturdy thick bare footed girl with hips, cankles and practical hair. We read the plaque. La femme Basque, Francisco Leiro. Call the whalers on stormy days.

So we passed Sheila on the way and posed for a snap.

The night was food, laughs and a wander in our new super comfortable Camper boots. At one point a marching band past with a crowd of 80 or so people following. We dawdled home through the town, up and down the hills and along the beach until we found ourselves climbing the five stories to our little apartment with the sea view that you could only see if you wedged yourself between the toilet and the wall and stood on one foot.

I love being five stories up in an apartment because of the views, the quiet and even the flights of stairs. After busy days walking or riding and almost in our bed I love to look up at the five story apartment block and think ‘Big day already and I have to climb a mountain before I go to bed. Game on.’

We woke and as expected the weather was cooler. We had three days in Biarritz. The first and last day of our trip had perfect beach weather and the middle day we knew was going to be mild and cloudy. Perfect slow day. I love a slow travel day. I find it impossible to carve out a slow travel day if the weather is brilliant. It’s always great when the weather is shit so I am forced to slow down. Otherwise I am FUCK LOOK AT THE WEATHER GET UP GET UP WE’RE IN A NEW PLACE!

We began the day with a bad American breakfast at Milwaukee, which according to our internet search seemed our best chance of a decent coffee. It wasn’t. Bear headed home to play guitar (he takes a Washburn travel bass for his medicinal need to do stuff with his hands, his guitar playing is often like his knitting). Jess and I wandered around the shops and I picked up a blue linen frock at a little market stall. As the northern hemisphere descended into winter I shoved my new dress into my bag smugly imagining myself of riding down the Merri Creek to the Coburg Pool wearing it while The South Of France was cold and dark.

The woman who sold me the dress said ‘Very nice. Good fit. And the price is very interesting!’

We kept wandering and I remarked that I do almost my shopping online in Australia. Jess was the same. We both only shop in actual stores when we are travelling. I went through everything I was wearing. All online purchases. Including my bag. We wandered into Galerie Lafayette (the French version of Myer) and each picked up a couple of scarves. I have always been a big scarf fan and Jess lives in Paris where EVERYONE wears scarves. The weather in Paris is quite mercurial and similar to Melbourne in that way. Most people do a lot of walking between home, work, socialising, subway and chores and scarves help regulate the constantly changing temperatures. Also chic. Jess and I found ourselves wandering around the department store chatting and holding things up against ourselves and looking in the mirror. We were having an incredibly relaxing time, neither had done this with a girlfriend for decades.

Jess suddenly remembered she was kind of interested in buying a new leather jacket. I told her she should buy one while I was in town so I could get the tax back at the airport. We tried on things, bought some bits and pieces and I said ‘Fucking hell look at us Jess we’re like a couple of surgeon’s wives out shopping while our husbands are at a conference.’ She couldn’t choose between a black motorbike jacket and a yellow bomber jacket with a fur collar. ‘Why not both?’ I said.

We hooked up with Bear around lunchtime and headed to a bar on the hill called Kostaldea. It was a lovely long walk where we got lost, got found and talked mainly Jess’s ‘visagiste’.

When we all met up in San Sebastian all three of us remarked on how good her hair looked ‘Who cut it?’ asked Em.

‘I don’t go to a hairdresser anymore I go to… a visagist.’

We all roared laughing and it became not only a running joke but a bit of an obsession for me. What was a visagist? Should I go? What would my hairdresser in Melbourne say? He’s a bit like a controlling boyfriend who watches me all the time and never lets me out of his sight.

‘A visagist,’ said Jess tossing her mane and theatrically fingering her curls, ‘is not just someone who simply cuts your hair. It’s someone who finds the essence of who you are and what your style is and sculpts your hair accordingly.

She too has a bit of a possessive hairdresser who has been known to COME TO PARIS FROM FRANKSTON to cut her hair.

I was tossing up a visit to the visagist purely for the story, (that’s how I make all my decisions in life, what would harvest the best anecdotes) but decided an afternoon in Paris sitting in a chair having my hair fondled by a wanker was not the best use of my time.

‘The style assessment and the haircut doesn’t take that long it’s the special drying technique where you sit under one of those old fashioned dryers that takes up all the time. Tell him to do the cut without the drying…’

We found the restaurant behind a golf course on top of the hill. It was more an open air bar than a restaurant so instead of a meal, a view and a glass of wine we ordered multiple serves of their one bar food platter (bread, ham, cheese and pickles) and got drunk on wheat beer while watching the surfers below and planning our next trip.

We rolled down the hill extolling the virtues of daytime drinking and arrived home around five o’clock. We promptly all feel asleep had a nap for an hour or so and then cleaned ourselves up for dinner.

It was a long lovely stroll down the street, paid homage to Sheila, then through the town, over the hill and down onto the beach to Le Surfing a funky casual bistro, more Australian in feel than heavy rich European. Another lovely night.

We did see surfers surfing in Biarritz. It was all a bit sad to be honest. A lot of people for a few shit waves. Despite the fact in France surfing is actually prescribed by doctors for depression.

We woke early keen to grab some gorgeous sun before our 2pm train to Paris. We packed up, had a quick coffee, pastry and juice at the boulangerie and hit the beach. Jess is from Frankston so she rented a wetsuit and a board and hit the waves showing those French cunts what for. Actually I don’t think she even caught a wave. We sucked up as much sun as we could before one by one we head back to the apartment. Bear went back to vacuum and clean the bathroom (this is the only Airbnb I have ever stayed in where you actually have to clean it and not just leave it tidy I mean who would want to stay in a place cleaned by the previous AirBnb visitors?). Jess went up to Galeries Lafayette to carpe diem and buy the two jackets she saw and use my travellers tax free exception and I stayed on the beach eking out the last minutes on the beach. It was much easier knowing I was heading home to warming temperatures. A lot of the Europeans on the beach had the grim look of people on the Titanic. I felt smug. Suffer in your jocks frogs.

Jess had taken my passport to get the tax free deducted from her jackets hoping to pass as me thinking something along the lines of ‘we all look the same to them’. Unfortunately they didn’t buy it and she texted me to meet her at Galeries Lafayette. No prob. I packed up my towel, had a quick dip and headed up the hill. I was wet so I walked along the beach drying off with my sarong around my waist and when I hit the shops, stalls and throngs of wandering I continued.

In Paris NO one wears active/sports/casual/mooching gear in the street. NO ONE. If you are going to the gym you wear your smart street clothes and when you arrive at the gym you changed into your sportswear then when you finish your work out you change back into your smart street gear and walk home. Jess has a mate who does Pilates everyday. The studio is around the corner from her house. Literally ONE BLOCK. Everyday she walks around tp the Pilates studio in her smart street clothes, gets changed, does her one-hour work out, gets changed again and then walks the block to home.

So I walked along in bathers and a sarong towards Galerie Lafayette and a man dressed in 50 shades of cerise and a panama hat loaded down with shopping bags waiting outside an expensive shop for what one assumes would be his partner gives me the biggest dirtiest look.

I just turned to him and said ‘Apres moi le deluge’ (after me, the flood).

I popped on a frock and sorted out Jess and her jackets, signed the forms and we headed back to the apartment for the final time via a place called Bali Bowl a hole in the wall that sold ‘superfood’ smoothie bowls (vomit) had good coffee that took a bizarrely long time to make.

As we turned up the hill to pay homage to Sheila for the final time I heard a voice from across the street ‘Catherine?’

I turned and it was Heide. A mate of Hugo (my 16 year old) on exchange in France. I’ve known this girl since she was in prep. I’d seen her recently at a do in Melbourne for a French exchange student being hosted by my mate Faith and I knew she’d left Melbourne a few weeks ago because I’d seen it on Facebook. I did not expect to run into her as I was wandering through the South Of France in my bathers.

I ran across the road and embraced her. “FUCK WE HAVE TO TAKE A PHOTO YOUR MUM WILL LOSE HER SHIT”. I then looked up and saw she was with her host family. A very French looking mother and a couple of teenage host siblings.

Heide said ‘I just walked passed Stephanie Alexander, now you!’

‘Who next?’ I said ‘Catriona Rowntree? Denise Drysdale?’

Here’s hoping her host family’s English isn’t that good. Jess joined us as I spoke bad French to her host mother and her host mother spoke bad English back to me. I introduced Jess and explained in English to Heide that Jess had been an exchange student too and not only is she now fluent in French but she lives in Paris and works as a manager in tourism.

I was so happy to bump into Heide. When I asked her how it was going she said ‘Up and down’. Being an exchange student is very hard. Not only are you a gangly awkward teenager but you are thrown into a new family, culture and school. My eldest son had a disastrous exchange experience and I have to say it’s the most stressful thing I have ever experienced. So much so the exchange company no longer sends students to that country. They’d had too many similar situations before. I would have loved for Dom to have bumped into a friendly face from home one of those days when things were tough.

(Re Dom’s exchange, he came home and hit the ground running, made sense of it in the way he does and in November is heading back on his own for a month to make peace with it.)

Jess and the host mother spoke in French. The mother had said ‘She came with nothing’ referring to Heide’s French. ‘Yep, that’s normal. That’s the Australian education system’ said Jess (who had also been a school teacher in Australia for eight years) ‘I was the same. Don’t speak any English to her. Only French.’ The mother also added that Heide had made massive progress in a very short time.

If things had been more down than up that day I hoped that little random interaction could help smooth and lubricate for both Heide and her host mother. Hats off to exchange students and their host families. It’s an incredibly valuable thing to do. After the war the all Germans children learned French at school and there were many exchange programmes between the countries to patch up the wounds.

When I posted the photo and reported the sighting to the mums from the primary school we all had a massive laugh ‘Those kid have to be very fucking careful. They never know when one of the school mums is watching them. EVEN if they are in another country!’

We grabbed the cases, dragged them down the five flights of stairs, caught a cab and pretty soon we found ourselves at the Biarritz train station. We stocked up with some assorted charcuterie and a few excellent baguettes from a vending machine and we were on schedule for dinner in Paris.

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COMING! Part Seven. Paris!  (there are 20 parts to total)
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On Teenagers, ATAR Results And Young People

On Teenagers

Adults need to stop asking young people what they want to do or be when they grow up or finish school, and instead, if they want to talk to a young person find our what they are doing or being NOW.

It’s lovely adults care but rather than focus on young people’s ‘future’ perhaps the best way adults could care is to let them know it’s normal not to know or be confused and not to worry about any of that stuff until they are 30.

This is not only because technology has us moving towards less jobs and a living wage.

Often adults ask young people about ‘what they are going to do’ in order to find a subject to talk about. The adult then goes on to approve or disapprove of the young person’s choice, to pigeonhole them or go into a rant about how the correct way the young person should go about their life.

This is not a conversation. This is a way adults create a social interaction so they can tell young people what to do and how to do it.

Teenagers need to focus on being teenagers. There is enough stuff to learn and to do than worry about the pressure to predict what a future self in a future world may want to do. I tell my sons 15, 17 and 20 everything I have needed to know I have learned from travel, living with people and working in hospitality. It’s important for boys and men in particular to be encouraged not to be defined by career or money.
I understand young people may have a desire to see themselves as something other than a kid or a student but I think it’s unwise for that definition to be a job, a profession, a course or a university. So many miserable grown ups have become that way because they have committed to a job/course/profession because of often well meaning people attempting to ‘encourage’ them. This usually manifests as the young person feeling pressure and not wanting to disappoint. Rather than demanding an answer from young people about what they want to do or be perhaps it’s wiser to focus on what they are doing and being and who they are and what they love.

When my kids fret about ‘the future’ I just say ‘You know what you have to focus on right now? Being a 14yo. That’s your only job. Be a 14yo.’

I understand the ‘Say something so adults will stop asking’ but I disagree strongly. There is nothing wrong with young people saying ‘no idea’, actually it’s a far better answer. Not only does a place holder answer put pressure on the young people to follow through but if they change their mind and don’t get the ATAR necessary it makes them feel even worse and as if they ‘failed’ seeing as though they ‘promised’. It also suggests that their present life is of no importance and just a holding pattern and the only thing worth having a conversation about is ‘the future’ when they are ‘an adult’.

It’s almost as if ‘well the only conversation worth having is with an adult or about being an adult’.

Focus on the sport they are into, their social lives, what music they’re listening to, what games they are playing, what YouTubes they are watching, who they are hanging out with, how they are finding their part time job etc. Most the young people I know are very, very interested in discussing politics and culture. They are often far more informed than I am about many things and it makes for a great chat.

Adults need to stop trying to help young people with their future and instead simply witness and encourage their present. Your ‘help’ often isn’t helping.

Another thing I have noticed is that almost all men and boys assume they are going to work full time for their entire lives, I assume to support a family and/or for status and identity. VERY FEW WOMEN HAVE EVER THOUGHT LIKE THIS. Women assume for many reasons they will work full time, part time and not at all due mostly to assuming they will have children and take time out of career to do that.

It’s bizarre that men and boys don’t think that way too. They should and it’s not only about encouraging men to be more involved in caring for their children it’s about encouraging boys and men to care for themselves and not simply see themselves as walking wallets or wage slaves. How many times have you heard women say they want ‘a rich man’ or men say ‘if I were wealthy that women would love me’?

Men need to have more balanced lives and be encouraged to be more rounded people. As men embrace this the added benefit will be giving women more flexibility and less excuses to be financially dependant on others and drop out of participation in and contributing to life outside their front door.

Women and girls need to stop thinking of themselves as being defined by their relationships with others but by who they themselves are, what they think and what they want.

‘What would you like to be when you grow up?’

‘An adult that can think of better things to ask teenagers ‘what do you want to be when you grow up?’

On ATAR Results

‘Alan’s leaving’ said my youngest son, ‘His parents are sending him to some private school. How can they afford a private school when they own a $2 shop? If everything is so cheap how can they make any money?’

‘So Alan’s starting year 8 there?’ I said.

‘No they couldn’t get him in when they wanted so he’ll be repeating year 7 next year.’

‘Is this Alan who does two hours tutoring every night?’

‘Yeah and his parents give him $10 a day for lunch but he’s only allowed to play 30 minutes computer games between his tutor and all the homework he gets. The only fun he has is at our school. And now he’s going to some private school because his parents want him to be a doctor.’

‘What about his brother’s and sisters? Is it the same for them?’ I asked.

‘He’s an only child. His family came to Australia three years ago.’

********

My eldest son got his VCE marks this time last year. It was a happy day. He was rapt with his ATAR score and delighted with his English mark. English was all he cared about. He’s dyslexic and wants to make a career from words, ideas and stories. Even though he wasn’t focused on a specific score, course or university he got well above the marks to enroll in the course he’s most likely to choose.

Watching my son go through the VCE experience made me understand why and precisely how our current year 12 system is unfair. The best we can hope for is that the VCErs are happy with their score and the felt it reflected their effort and/or ability.

I’ve always said to my kids ‘chose the subjects you love and your life will follow’. The ‘follow your passion’ and ‘do something you love and you’ll never work a day in your life’ encouragement has embedded it another pressure. The pressure to ‘find your passion’. And what if they don’t want to make a living from their passion for the fear it will lose it’s sparkle?

I have no interest in any of my three son’s marks unless they want to share their delight or disappointment. If they walk through the door and said ‘Guess what I got 89% on the test last week!’ I’d say ‘Well done! You must be rapt!’. If they walk through the door and said ‘I’m really pissed off I thought I’d done really well and only got 62% on the humanities essay’ I’d say ‘Well that sucks. Can I make you a milkshake? Would you like me to organize you some extra help? Let me know.’

I have never been focused on my children’s marks, only their behavior, effort and happiness. My hopes have been for them to be resilient and well rounded.

On the day the year 12 results roll in there is always a non stop media stream of spectacular high achievers punctuated by messages of news of how my mates kids and my son’s friends went. The day my eldest son got his ATAR the day dislodged something in me and I reflected deeply and widely.

There were rolling stories about teenagers getting near perfect scores. I wondered how this was even possible. As a dyslexic it’s impossible to conceive how anyone can rote learn or remember even the simplest things. I am 49 and still can’t tell my left from my right.

It was even more difficult for me to imagine wanting those kinds of marks in order to be accepted into the type of courses that required those marks, or even just wanting high marks for the sake of high marks. I’m a completionist not a perfectionist. Ps get degrees and all that.

I was happy for high achieving kids and their teachers. Everybody deserves celebration and recognition. They worked hard and have marks to prove it. But working hard is not guarantee a person will get a result that reflects it.

There would be kids who worked as hard if not harder and received far lower marks on ATAR Monday. Some students work hard, some have huge support, some have a natural ability to find academia effortless, many are blessed with a few of these.

How much of a success is it for a clever kid who finds school work easy and enjoyable with amazing support at school and home to get an excellent ATAR?

I couldn’t help wondering what the costs and the pressures were of those marks for those kids who had done exceptionally well.

I wondered what the high achieving kid’s motivation were. The pressures they were under and the expectations the people around them had of them. I wondered what those kids missed out on. I wondered how they would feel when the thrill of the high mark they received and the prestigious course they were accepted into faded. Would they be happy, relieved and relaxed? Would they feel daunted? Would they feel the approval from their parents was love? Would they be excited about studying an area they were passionate in? Would they be grateful for the incredible sacrifices and investment their parents made and the opportunities afforded them?

Or would they do what was expected of them regardless of their own personal interests. They, their parents, their teachers and school had invested such a huge amount would it seem wrong to ‘waste’ the marks they got and the doors those marks opened?

On the day the scores came out I wondered about the kids with the super high scores. I kept thinking suddenly the bar had been lifted so high for those kids and it was all down hill from here.

When you get an average or above average mark there is plenty of room to surprise or impress. Under promise over deliver. When you score an ATAR of 99.9 and get into medicine or law at Melbourne Uni the only way is down.

Would the parents of students who receive close to perfect ATAR scores feel vindicated by the investment they made in expensive schools and tutors? I’m sure some kids would have enjoyed the challenging ride. Others would have been panicked by the fear of disappointing their parents who had so much hanging on their outcome. Other kids would have failed their parent’s expectations.

Mostly I wondered about the cost. Not financial but human and emotional. Yes they got high marks and no matter how much effort a student, their parents and their teachers put in not all kids would be able to achieve these marks.

Around the time the VCE results came out I joined the biggest VCE Facebook page and lurked a little. After not giving this particular juncture in time any real thought I was suddenly fascinated by what a strange day the ATAR result day is. It means nothing and everything. As I scanned the page there was a mix of students satisfied, thrilled and disappointed. There is so much leading up to this day but so much more ahead for these young people.

The page was full of selfie videos of people getting their results. Some reacting to getting the ATAR they hoped for, some being shocked at a score much lower than they expected and some in disbelief when their expectations were exceeded.

This post broke my heart.

‘For the people think the Asian stereotype is a joke:
I got an atar of 91.65 and my parents weren’t exactly the happiest parents in the world. The first question I got out of them was how come you got such a low atar? What I can’t tell them is that leaving you 8000 miles away in a foreign country with a sister who constantly fights with you, whilst battling depression and constant anxiety weren’t exactly the best of circumstances.’

As the day progressed I thought about the many hundreds of people I knew who’s life’s had not in any way shape or formed turned out the way you would have predicted if you had simply judged it on their year 12 results.

A girl who is also dyslexic received a score well below what she had expected and hoped for. According to her mum she was ‘in shock’. I wanted to run to where ever she was and hug her and tell her it is okay, it’s was okay and it will be okay. The education system is crazy and does not reflect a people’s ability or effort unless you are a particular kind of person with a particular set of genetic and socio economic advantages.

I wanted to tell her an amazing ATAR does not insulate you from unhappiness, failure, self-hatred, abuse, addiction, grief, envy, depression, anxiety, sickness, bad luck or a broken heart.

The girl is fabulous and I can’t wait to see how her story will end, I can’t wait to see the world recalibrate and when she gets her moment to shine that will put this tiny insignificant blip into perspective.

On ATAR results day Facebook threw two articles into my feed back to back. The first article was about parents of 24-year-old twins with severe disabilities. It was a sobering read as the media was constantly updating the perfect scores of perfect kids by the minute. These parents are still parenting their adult children as if they were three years old. I wondered what their expectations for their children were? What would these parents consider an extraordinary achievement. Their daughters showering themselves, catching a bus or getting dressed?

The next article was about a Syrian refugee, Saad Al-Kassab who despite missing out on several years of schooling and only beginning learning English in 2014 received an ATAR of 96.65. He was disappointed. He was hoping for an ATAR score of 98. Saad is going to study medicine his mum wants him to be a doctor.

I can’t stop thinking about Alan who’s starting at ‘some private school’ next year. His parents arrived in this country three years ago and are giving him what they see as the best chance in life. Private school, tutors, high expectations, limited free time and the chance of a better life they never had.

Alan’s parents want him to be a doctor.

I wonder what Alan wants.

Alan is 12 years old.

“The greatest burden a child must bear is the unlived life of its parents.” Carl Jung

On Young People

Son: Don’t cook dinner for me tonight
Me: Where you off to?
Son: You know Milo Yiannopoulos?
Me: *heart sinks*
Son: We’re going to the city for this thing
Me: This thing? You’re going to hear him speak?
Son: No way! The lads and I are going to the protest
Me: *heart restarts*

When you teach your kids how to think not what to think you have many moments like this. Sometimes they will be curious about views you don’t share or endorse. In that case I always a take a very relaxed stance and say ‘I’ll be interested to hear what you make of that.’ When they tell me their take on it I nod and make noises.

I never ever try and ‘talk them out of it’ or say ‘that’s stupid you’re an idiot’. I have a lot of faith in all young people. Love them with an open hand.

If you are attempting to raise your child to think for themselves how could you be get angry when they do? Surely you should think ‘Fantastic, they think something I disagree with, clearly they have learned to think and not just mimic their parents.’

Let their intellectual, creative, social and political curiosity do it’s own thing untethered. If you take them on and try to argue with them or change their mind it can pull their own perfectly accurate instinct and moral compass off course. Muddling through to find out what they think is a complicated process as they separate from their parents, find out who they are and become fine young adults.

Another thing we can provide is a soft landing for when they fuck up. A non-judgmental place where they can catch their breath and lick their wounds.

It’s a parents’ job to become redundant.

******

You may also like… Tips for parents of Year 12s

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Part Five. Last San Sebastian

RIGHT! EVERYONE UP! BIKE TOUR 10AM IT’S 8.53 RIGHT NOW AND THE BEST COFFEE IS SEVEN MINUTES WALK AWAY AND IT’S 12 MINUTES FROM THERE TO THE BIKE PLACE.

That was Jess.

I sprang out of bed. ‘Bear’s in the shower. Give him a knock and tell him to get out. I don’t need a shower I can be ready in three minutes.’ I said pulling on a frock.

Emma yelled ‘I don’t need a shower either I can be ready in two minutes’

‘FUCK YOU EMMA’ I yelled back ‘I’ll be ready in 90 seconds and I fucked your mum.’

‘I haven’t have a shower for two days so I have to have a quick one’ said Jess as she pounded on the bathroom door to get Bear out ‘Hey bike tour 10am. Get out. You’re clean enough.’

‘YOU’RE A SHOWER TAKING PUSSY JESS GO HARD OR GO HOME’

By 9.01 we were outside the apartment hotfooting it to the best breakfast place in San Sebastian. Thank good for Google reviews and Trip Advisor.

Breakfast place was called Sakona It was the kind of place we have in Melbourne. Now you could do the ‘Ugh, why on earth would you go to a Melbourne kind of place when you should have what the locals have for breakfast?’ And I could then say ‘Go fuck yourself.’

We all needed and wanted good coffee and good breakfast. Not something that didn’t quite hit the spot. Not something we didn’t realized we ordered. New place, new bed, slightly hungover, scratchy eyed, cotton mouthed, slightly pinched brain and keen to make the most of the day we needed reliable fuel. I’m not interested in ‘trying new food’ when I am travelling and need to equipt myself for a big day. I need something I know will keep me going. I don’t mind ‘trying new food’ in passing, but not as my entire meal. Coffee was good. Breakfast good. The cafe was Melbourne enough they served those 63 degree eggs, or as I call them, uncooked. Fun times. Lots of laughs. Scoff, rock and roll.

We discussed how great it was that we were all able to get out the door so fast, happily and with no fuss. That’s what you want in travel companions, people who are relaxed but also able to get their shit together in a hurry.

Most of my travel adventures have been made so much better by travelling with relaxed people who are flexible and adaptable and can get their shit together in minutes if necessary.

I don’t hang out with, and don’t travel by choice with whingers, nervous Nellies, tight arses, piss heads, worry warts, crisis generators, wankers, judgey cunts, the thin skinned, high maintenance or the snarky.

Basically you are after ‘can do’ people not ‘can’t do’ people. Avoid can’ts.

We made it to the Go Local San Sebastián full of carbs, coffee and uncooked egg by 10am on the dot. I was delighted to find it was an ELECTRIC bike tour. Little green bikes with Bosch batteries and motors. The guide Alain was a friendly, enthusiastic Basque bloke who rode us around San Sebastian, or Guy Sebastian as we had started to call it, for the next few hours. He was very knowledgeable but not excessively into details and wove history, culture and politics into our ride as we rode along the beach up the hill to Monte Igeldo and through the town. He even taught us how to play Pelota Mano (Basque Handball) in the national stadium.

The brilliant bike infrastructure in San Sebastian as in most of Europe puts Australia to shame. Drivers, pedestrians, public transport and cyclists all navigate the shared terrain a little like skiers, watching people in front and moving in a purposely predictable manner. Separated lanes are a big help but it’s the attitude of everyone that the space is to be shared that makes the biggest impact by far.

Threaded through the tour Al explained the history, struggles and triumphs of the Basque people. He even taught us a bit of language. The Basques are an indigenous ethno-linguistic group who mainly inhabit Basque country so their history is interconnected with Spanish and French history.

We think we may have experienced our only ‘bike rage’ incident in San Sebastian. As we rode along the designated bike lanes at a sensible pace a rather odd swaying older gentleman wandered into our path and called Bear what sounded like ‘El Niño’. So basically the guy stung Bear with the sledge ‘a warm phase’. That’ll teach him.

The electric bikes were brilliant. So much better for a San Sebastian tour than a regular bike due to the climb to Mount Igeldo. Even the most seasoned cyclist would have found it a challenge. Electric bikes take any stress out of a ride, they erase hills, headwinds, middle age and fatigue. You still have to pedal (the motor assists you it doesn’t carry you) but it means you can see more of the city, faster and with ease. Bike riding for me is not about exercise but about pleasure, convenience and active travel.

I was curious as to how ‘the people’ in San Sebastian had lunch and dinner. All you hear about is pinxtos. Al sent us off to one of many the worker’s restaurant called where you can get a set menu or order a la carte.

We went a la carte. It was a basic lunch of bit of chook, bit of salad, some bread, some excellent garlic prawns. Em is vego which throws up challenges for her in a lot of places she travels. With a little research and forethought she navigates them with ease. There are even apps that can lead you to vego or vego friendly restaurants. This trip has had me thinking more deeply than ever before about how mobility, pain, medical and toilet issues and dietary requirements add another layer of complexity to travel. I have a herniated disk and Anthony has a dodgy tummy that we manage fairly easily but other than that we are super fit and healthy, eat anywhere, walk or ride everywhere and have no problems using any bed, shower or toilet. So far three lots of accommodation have been up five flights of stairs, most of them had showers over high sided baths, one toilet we had to access side on (the gap between the basin and the wall was less than 50 centremetres) and one bed was in a loft which required climbing a ladder to access. None of this was any problem. I didn’t even know about most of these things because they make no difference to us so I don’t need to filter accommodation to avoid.

Some people manage medical and mobility issues their whole lives but they can happen to anyone at anytime. On our first day in Rome we chatted with someone who had to head home early from her travels because she’d mangled her knee. Sickness, disability and injury cost and not just in a monetary sense.

After lunch we dawdled back to the apartment, grabbed our bathers and wandered across to the beach. We’d lucked in with the weather. Shit weather either side of our arrival but blue skies, warm sunshine and cool nights for our couple of days in town. Dotted amongst the folks on the sand there were quite a few nude sunbathers. As is always the way it was the people no one really wanted to see with their gear off who had their gear off. We’re talking old hairy, wrinkly, mostly men who for some reason spend a lot of time bending over.

The beach was lovely but it was the sun that was truly delicious. To lie on the warm sand with the sun on my back, legs and arms was intoxicating. My hair was warm. I could feel the sun tingling on my scalp, my back, my face and my legs. I felt myself slowly melting in the earth. Melbourne winter had not been particularly long or cold, it never is, it just feels like it, and that first proper sunbathe makes me realise why people are so much more chilled when they can strip off and get some vitamin D and some sun. Lying on the earth feeling the light and warmth on my bare skin was a tonic.

After a snooze and a read on the beach I had a quick dip before going back to the apartment where we checked in with our digital worlds, napped and mooched around the apartment.

When we’d arrived our Airbnb the host had shown us a shared apartment lightwell for drying our clothes. It was a typical European apartment block with dozens of people all trying to get their washing done without hanging it over the balcony or taking up too much space.

Bear is the laundry guy on our travels. We are excellent travel companions and the tasks have naturally and neatly divided. I do money, accommodation, itinerary, food and language. He does keys, safety, laundry, navigation, tech, early flights alarms and heavy lifting.

I went looking for a frock on the drying rack in the shared light well. The clothes weren’t drying that well and I wondered if we should bring them into the sunny party of the living room near the open window. I heard Emma crashing about ‘Em, give us a hand with this clotheshorse. I reckon it’d dry better in the lounge.’

She grabbed one end and we tried to shift it through the narrow doorway ‘Nah, won’t fit. I reckon it’s alright there.’

‘Hang on we could put the washing out here ‘ It was a young happy female Australian voice. But it wasn’t Emma. I was disorientated.

‘Oh look, they’ve even got a washing machine. Do we have any detergent left?’ responded a young chirpy female British voice.

Emma was back in her room. It took me a moment to realise the voices were from an apartment a few floors up and the sound was bouncing through the light well ventriloquist style so it sounded as if the voices were in my head, or perhaps in the room, or perhaps from behind me.

I was a little startled. It sounded exactly like my darling Becky and I travelling in our early 20s. Becky was an English, prototype Home Counties girl horses, boarding school and it was rumoured she had a ‘title’ she kept quiet. I was a rough piss taking Aussie. We met in Tokyo teaching English got along like a house on fire and we did a lot of travelling together. We’re still mates today. She lives in Scotland in a castle. They have hounds.

When I travel I’m frequently and vividly transported back to other times in my life when I’ve been travelling. It as If my travel world exists parallel to my non-travel life.

Every year we have a winter holiday with a bunch of other families in a barn near Wilson’s Prom. We’ve been going for 20 years. This year my 15 year old joined us a few days after we arrived and I picked him up from the bus stop in Fish Creek, a small town close by. As we drove towards the winter house my son said ‘I can see the barn already in my mind. I know exactly what it will be like. It’s so familiar to me. Before I left home I remember consciously thinking ‘Remember this, standing here in my home’ because when I go to the barn I forget home. And when I come home I forget the barn. When I come home I feel as if I was never there and when I am there I can’t remember home. It’s like all the winter house memories join up together and all the home memories join up together.’

Yeah. That.

The four of us gussied ourselves up and headed out for our last night in San Sebastian. We began with booze and pintox at a jumpy bar before a beautiful dinner at Gerald’s. Gerald’s Bar has a sister establishment in Carlton. Sure we could go to Gerald’s in Melbourne and guess what, we do, but again for all you playing at home rolling your eyes get fucked.

We rolled out of Gerald’s around 11pm happy, chatty and rosy cheeked into the balmy night with the sea breeze. We ran through the things we’d done and the things we’d do next time. I felt I didn’t really get a lock on the place. I feel I hadn’t really gotten under it’s skin or it under mine. I think this was partly because I am not familiar with the language or the culture. Unlike British, US, Italian, French, Japanese etc Spanish and Basque culture is not as passively woven through our literature, media, comedy, music or film in the same way.

Oh fuck. The cheesecake shop. Everyone had told us we had to go to the same famous cheesecake shop called La Viña.
It was past 11pm. Surely it wouldn’t be open. The shop was in Old Town near our apartment so there was nothing to be lost by wandering past.

Open? Fucking jumping. It was overflowing with people all eating what looked like unremarkable baked, slightly charred cheesecake. We ordered a couple of pieces as we stood looking at a dozens of identical cheesecakes piled high. The Great Wall Of Cheesecake.

It was warmish, velvety, perfectly balanced and delicious. Our eyes rolled into the back of our heads in delight and we moaned in ecstasy as we devoured the cake. Bear even did a little dance from side to side and flapped his hands. We all agreed it was the best cheesecake we had ever eaten.

We tumbled home laughing and planning out next trips. This cheesecake stop will remain my fondest memory of San Sebastian. Becoming a happy gangbuster travel unit in such a short time is such a joy. And it reminded me of so many times in my early 20s when this had happened and it had seemed like magic.

Growing up you have your friends, family, neighbours and school mates. You belong to a certain tribe and you brand yourself with social markers through your clothes, where you live, how you speak and what you do. When I began travelling and meeting new people who were not part of all that unspoken pigeon holing, stereo typing and social profiling I was thrilled to find my personality was not reliant on my clothes, school, who I knew, where I lived or what I did. The essence of who was portable, adaptable and in a short time people were taking the piss out of me and I them in exactly the same way my friends and family did at home. It was a revelation. It was a liberation.

By the time we woke Emma had finished her carb loading tour of San Sebastian and had left for Berlin for her marathon. It was another sparkling blue-sky day. We headed through the town in search of breakfast which we found at Old Town Coffee. Jess and I bought some tax free Camper boots spur of the moment on the way back to the apartment. As we packed speedily, I called out to Jess to check if there were Ubers available’. ‘No Ubers, lucky you suggested we check. We’ll hail a cab down on the main street’.

We said goodbye to the apartment and dragged our luggage down the stairs. No taxis on the main street. Slight panic. We didn’t have a heap of time to get to the bus terminus. Jess was two steps ahead and went into tour guide mode and began hotfooting it to an intersection with a greater chance of finding a cab. She had our tickets, knew what time the bus was leaving and knew where the station was. She only had a backpack so could move faster. We dragged our 20-kilo luggage behind us.

I wasn’t at all fazed or concerned. Jess was sorting this and I just had to follow her lead. It was a blissful moment. ‘This must be what it feels like for the boys and Bear to travel with me’ I thought to myself because I am usually the tour guide, organizer, whip cracker, problem solver, knower of the logistics, Julie McCoy and chaos wrangler.

Jess hailed a cab, we were at the bus station with heaps of time and before we knew it we were in another country.

****
COMING! Part SIx.  South of Fucking FRANCE MATE!  (there are 20 parts to total)
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Part Four. San Sebastian

It’s fascinating leaving one country to head off to a new one. As soon as you pass through to the gate lounge, terminal, platform or port you are in a mash up of the place you are and the place you are going to. I’d never been to Spain before so as we boarded Iberia Airlines I was sticky beaking about getting on with the important job of racial stereotyping and massaging my prejudices. The Spanish kind of looked like a banged up version of the Italians I thought to myself. They looked like they were running late because they’d all had a last minute shag before work. Relaxed, slightly disheveled and distracted. Were they a cross between the Italian and the French? The Greek and the Italian? The Greek and the French? Perhaps they were just fucking Spanish and I should stop playing the ‘what do you get when you cross this with that game’. God I am so fucking parochial.

Half way through my time living in Tokyo in 1993 I bumped into a sheila I had worked as a waiter with at the Arts Centre. I think her name was Katrina. She was leaving the Land Of The Rising Yen in a few weeks with her pockets full of cash and told me she was taking the Trans-Siberian express on her way to backpack through Europe.

The mere mention of the famous train trip immediately unlocked three doors in my head. 1. Fuck how cool would it be to be able to say ‘I’m going on the Trans-Siberian in a few weeks.’ 2. How many travel brag stories would I win with that one and 3. I read about the Trans-Siberian in Bob Geldof’s autobiography when I was 13 years old and remembered thinking ‘that sounds so fucking cool’ but thought no more of it.

As a 13 year old reading a biography of Bob Geldof on the bottom bunk of the bedroom I shared with my two sisters in a housing commission house in Reservoir there was no such thing as bucket lists, wish boards or creative visualization. We just had prayer. Praying the shit didn’t hit the fan and begging for favors. Nothing as bold as ‘having dreams’. I would have thought of the Trans Siberian express as something other people did, like being on Young Talent Time, meeting Daryl and Ossie or flying to the moon. I wouldn’t have been jealous or determined to do it. Growing up poor in the ghetto my dream at that stage of my life would simply have been to not get pregnant before marriage.

So the mere mention of the Trans-Siberian express activated that tiny fragment deep down the memory hole. If it was the kind of thing ‘other people did’ clearly I was now one of those other people.

Katrina’s mention of the Trans-Siberian express did activate a rare pang of jealousy. I am not an envious or jealous person at all but I find the rare pangs very illuminating. They show me what it is I would like to do, be or go next.

I booked the trip through a small indi company called Moonsky Star. Moon. Sky. Star. I took a slow boat to Shanghai from Kobe after enduring a night bus from Tokyo. After I arrived in Shanghai I took a train to Beijing where the official trip took off. From the moment I stepped aboard the boat in Kobe I collected other people who were all heading to Beijing to assemble for the Trans-Sib. I love travelling on my own. It never lasts long. People travelling alone quickly meet others and form groups despite how keen you are to go solo.

The train trip from Beijing to Moscow via Mongolia and Siberia took 12 days. You could do a four-day version or a three week version. The decision to only spend one night in Mongolia was perhaps the best of my life. How much mutton can you eat, Passiona can you drink and fermented mare’s milk can you smell and not dry retch?

Watching the Asian faces turn into Caucasian faces the further we travelled north was a revelation. Mongolians faces seemed the perfect half way point. As if they were the result of one of a photo shop app where you could mash up races.

I was very keen to travel a long distance as close to land as possible. I wanted to comprehend how big the world was. Plane travel is very deceptive. One minute you are in Melbourne, an hour later you are in Sydney. But how big is the world? A night bus, a slow boat and several elderly trains from Tokyo to St. Petersburg really made me able to comprehend how big and small the world was and is.

Bear and I landed at Madrid airport and had to get a connecting flight to San Sebastian. What gate was it? How did we get to the gate? How long would it take and hang on I just need to make sure we don’t have to get our luggage here and check it in again here. We followed the signs, ended up in a shuttle and we were in the right terminal with 40 minutes to spare. Cool. Relax. The terminal was super light and sunny, the Spanish wafted around non-chalantly and seemed to be travelling with a ridiculous amount of small dogs in zip up baskets.

‘Please note. There are no boarding announcements at this airport’.

Ah! That explains why it feels so relaxed. We’re not constantly having our fucking brains pierced with information we don’t need. Very fucking civilized.

I tweeted – Madrid airport PA. Please note. There are no boarding announcements at this airport #becausefuckyou

We had a laugh, found our gate, checked our social media and had a drink.

A queue started to form and we rolled our eyes and talked about who these people were who queued up so early, for what? The seats were assigned and it was the crew’s job to find a place to store your hand luggage if the overhead compartments were full. We went back to our screens and felt smug and superior.

We finally moseyed over as the line began to move and I made a comment about how laid back the Spanish were ‘See this flight is supposedly taking off in five minutes and they have only started to board….’

At the same moment I started thinking it Bear said ‘Are we in the right queue?’

Holy fuck. We raced up to the empty check in point two metres from the queue we were in and as we got closer to the bored looking crew member we could clearly see she was standing under a screen that said San Sebastian FLIGHT CLOSED.

As I pulled out our boarding passes and passports we begged to be let on the flight while the Spanish sheila berated us. I just kept saying ‘we were standing in that queue, we didn’t see this queue…’ we ran to the plane hot footed it along the tarmac, climbed the stairs and caught our breath.

That was over a week ago. I can’t tell you how many times I have had flashbacks and shuddered at the remembering how close we were to missing the plane. How did that happen we kept asking each other. We were at the gate. The check in was directly behind our seats. How did we not see a queue? We saw the other longer queue. Rooky mistake that one.

The no boarding announcements really did make a difference when you are used to being micromanaged by PA. It was also a very small flight. Less than 40 people. I don’t think there was any queue. The check in was open and people drifted straight through. The signals to board I am accustomed to are the formation of a queue and the announcement. There were no announcements and there was a long queue that formed about the time we expected and only one metre away from our correct check in.

We landed in San Sebastian around noon. I knew fuck all about it apart from the fact it was supposed to have the best food in Europe and people raved about the place. As we flew in looked gorgeous, beaches, blue skies, dear little houses, no tall buildings, lush hills. Should be good.

In the same way I love seeing performances and films I know nothing about I love rocking up to places about which I know fuck all. I did know San Sebastian was part of Basque Country so we were in Spain but not in Spain.

No Ubers here so we took a cab to the Airbnb. I speak a little French and a little Italian and a bit more Japanese but no Spanish and no Basque. It was very very odd feeling mute. I showed the cab driver the address on the phone and off we went. I peered out the window summing it up.

And you can fuck right off with your ‘I always make sure I know a few phrases in any language before I arrive in another country. Hello, good-bye, excuse me, thank-you. It’s not hard and it’s very disrespectful to land in a new place with a different language and not have made an effort…’

FUCK. RIGHT. OFF. You do it your way you judgey cunt and I’ll do it mine.

The reason we were here was because of my mate Jess. She’s one of my besties, a manager for a tour company in Paris and an intrepid and enthusiastic traveler along with being a cracking sheila. Bear, me and 11yo Charlie hung out with her in Paris in 2014 and had the most incredible time. When we decided on this crazy trip and Bear and I had two weeks to ourselves one of the things we wanted to do was hang out with Jess. I asked her to work out a bit of an adventure for us all. San Sebastian was our first stop.

We couldn’t get into the Airbnb for a couple of hours so food, beer and some sunshine was the plan. For the next two hours we became the pitiful creatures who drag their luggage around a new place having no idea and knowing we are about to have the worst food and most expensive beer in this leg of the trip. We found a chicken shop where everything was written in Basque and I managed to point and mime enough to get some chicken and chips in a polystyrene container. It was humiliating, liberating and equalising in equal proportions. There were some wide stone steps close by so we decided to set ourselves up with our luggage entourage. There was a bloke sitting a few stairs behind us. Big bloke. May or may not be homeless or a tourist but looked harmless enough. We wolfed down our deep fried treats as we watched the people, breathed the air and started to get a lock on the place.

We had almost finished our lunch when a large white van started to reverse park in front of us. Slowly, deliberately and with precision. The vans bumper touched the bumper of the car parked as it reversed.

And kept going.

When I say kept going I mean reversed so much the bumper of the car parked was completely mashed and the reversing cars bumper was being enveloped. There was a strange crunching noise but not as loud or piercing as you’d expect. The van straightened up, drove forward, extricated itself from the car behind and the van driver hopped out without a backward glance.

The large bloke sitting behind us said in a broad Australian accent ‘Fuck me dead. That’s one way to park.’

It’s at these kind of moments I am always very very quiet. The bloke had clearly heard our accents and knew we were Australian so it was too late to pull the ‘No, English pardon monsieur, no English’ so instead we both silently packed up our rubbish and wheeled our cases to the bar around the corner.

You never know when a solo Australian traveler is an independent, fun, well travelled person who’s good value and an excellent chat or when they are travelling alone because it’s their only option.

Apropos the bumper bar that magically sprang back to shape after the Reverse Parking Incident, the driver clearly knew something we didn’t the bumper was made of some thick rubber/plastic deal. ‘That’ said Bear who is constantly annoyed and frustrated by the fact we don’t live in the future where there is universal free wifi, full skeleton replacements, a living wage, free public transport, self driving cars and bicycle docking stations everywhere ‘is how bumpers should be made’.

We were installed into our gorgeous AirBnb with a view of the Old Town and the beach. Jess was arriving from Paris later that night but her friend Emma who we had never met was meeting us at the Airbnb.

Emma rocked up loaded up with backpack and case and in five minutes we had made a new friend. She was a ripper. Which I expected. Jess is a brilliant traveler and excellent people person and there is no way she’d make a wrong call. Many people do. They invite people along to travel who they personally like or want to please and their lack of thought? insight? Consideration? totally fucks up the trip because they have not bothered to think about the symbiosis of the trip as a whole and only of what they want. To bring an annoying person on the trip fucking up other people’s holiday.

We settled in with wine, chat and easy conversation. Emma too was an intrepid traveler, had met Jess when they were exchange students in Belgium in their teens and was running the Berlin Marathon the following Sunday.

It was exactly what travelling in my early 20s was like. Rock up to somewhere with a mate and their mate and suddenly you’re a travel family with in jokes, intimate revelations and a bond forged by close quarters, shared interests and full on chat.

I had to deal with some annoying bullshit from home, which always happens. I love being connected and I don’t mind dealing with the bullshit but it does mean switching into a different mode. Doing what you can, taking counsel from others about what is best to do, how much can be done from here and the best way to minimize negative impact to you travel and your travel companions and maximize any way you can positively affect the situation out of reach.

I always know when I travel shit will hit the fan where I am or on the other side of the world. I expect it and when it happens I am a little relieved. ‘Good, tick, so something has happened. Not to serious, could have been worse, will blow over soon.’

The fear of shit happening when you are travelling either where you are or at home should not stop people travelling. Shit happens all the time whether you are there or here. You just have to manage it. Some serious shit had gone down when I am far away from loved ones. You just have to do your what you can, where you are with what you have and get some perspective. It’s shit when people you love are being affected by something out of their control or caused by a toxic fuckwit. There is a temptation to air lift them out or abandon your adventure to rescue them but the bottom line you know what? If you don’t rescue people and sort out situations they have plan B-Z you’re just Plan A probably because you are the most reliable and available but you may not be the best.

Even when I was single I have memories of being anxious about tiny things or worse still non-existent things so even having no actual worries is no guarantee of not worrying

Em, Bear and I hit the town about 8pm. I was a little distracted with the shit going on but determined to get as much out of the night a possible.

San Sebastian is famous for its pintxos, small cheap bar snacks. It’s a little overwhelming at first but you have to roll your sleeves up, get stuck in and work it out. Going out for pintxos is basically a bar and food crawl. The idea is not to ‘settle in’ somewhere but to have a drink and a bite at once place and then wander to another joint.

We spent our night wandering around beautiful Old Town. Lanes and lanes full of hundreds of little joints with their bars stacked with dozens of little snacks, mostly stuff piled on pieces of baguette. Some of the pintxos you choose from the bar, some off a menu, some written on boards and some you point to and they warm up.

We were told to try the white sparkling wine of the region called txakoli, which is poured in the same, flamboyant way a street food seller in India or the Middle East would poor tea. Suffice to say txakoli is not my cup of my tea. But I did have four glasses of it to make sure.

I was curious as to how often and under what circumstances the locals got their pintxos on. I wasn’t keen to eat like this every night. Not only am I not a massive drinker but also I am more a sitting at the table having a proper meal kind of sheila.

We headed back to the apartment when Jess rolled up. There was hugging and squealing and the dumping of her backpack and we headed back to the bars.

We ended the night at a mad place tucked behind a church called La Cuchara de San Telmo. People had warned us we had to know what we wanted. The place was fast and furious. Luckily Em and Jess speak fairly good bar/taxi/shagging Spanish so after some ‘no you can’t have that, no you can’t sit there, no we’ve run out’ some incredible food arrived and was demolished between delighted moans before the new city excitement was overtaken by food, booze and yawning.

We wandered back home around midnight laughing and chatting through the gorgeous little lanes. We discussed the possibility of a bike tour in the morning, I’d seen three online. Jess said she’d do some research and try to book us something for the morning. We hit the sack and the sack hit us. I didn’t have a lock on the place yet but I was keen and determined.

 

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Part Three. Last bit of Rome

Broke my travel rule of never going to the same place by heading back to Cafe Sciascia for coffee and toasted prosciutto and mozzarella panini for the second day in a row because fuck the police. The streets that had been dead the day before on a Sunday were jumping 8.30am on a Monday with folks zipping on vespas to work, kids mouching to school and oldies shuffling out to do their shopping. I had that thought again that I always do when I am a tourist and it’s a week day ‘Wow. People actually live here. What would that be like. What would it be like if we lived here. Could I live her? Would I like to live here…?’

I went ‘overseas’ for the first time when I was 24. I grew up calling it going ‘overseas’. It’s such an Australian thing. People from other countries call it going abroad, travelling or visiting another country. But visiting another country when you are Australian means going over seas.

So I was 24. I had this boyfriend Alex who was a bit older and had some cash and on my 24th birthday he gave me a ridiculously big bunch of flowers that I didn’t have a vase big enough for so I had to use a bucket, a CD of Bach’s St Matthew’s Passion that I couldn’t play because my CD player had been nicked and told me he’d take me overseas for my birthday anywhere in the world I wanted to go. I’d left uni and was a waiter just breaking into stand-up so I wasn’t cashed up at all so this was a generous and ostentatious gift. Ireland was my first choice. We only have ten days to travel so going to Europe was probably a bit too far he said. I then suggested New York, India, Paris… It turns out he wanted to go to Thailand and Vietnam so the ‘anywhere in the world’ was a bit of an overstatement. It was incredible experience, travel is the greatest gift, and it really hooked me on travel. Neither of my parents ever left Australia. I was always wide eyed and a little envious hearing people’s travel stories. After my first ‘overseas’ trip I felt as if I had joined some club, levelled up and finally arrived. Somewhere. I was a person with a passport and travel stories.

It was because of this boyfriend I ended up living in Tokyo for 18 months the next year. It’s a long story. I taught English there, earned enough money to put a deposit on the house I still own, did a bunch of other travel including the Trans Siberian Express where I feel in love with a posh english hedanist who was the inspiration for my book The Happiness Show. I can’t remember much about the relationship to be honest which is strange because it went for a few years but Alex and the travel I did with him and because of him really changed the course of my life.

He’d travelled to Tokyo for work (he was in publishing) just before he and I met. He raved about it and the people he hung out with who were all Australians teaching English. He kept saying ‘If I was your age I’d be living in Tokyo teaching English. You can make heaps of money and have a fucking ball. You are under 26 so you can get a working holiday visa’. A year later I did just that. We split up between me buying my ticket and leaving Australia.

Sitting on the slow cheap train from Narita to Tokyo wide eyed and head fucked I remember looking out the window at kids going to school stopped at the boom gates, girls in their sailor suits, boys in their uniforms inspired by the Prussian army lugging their back packs thinking ‘WOW. People actually live here…’

So after our coffee we headed back to Rex-Tours for another four hour bike ride this time with a 10am start. The weather was fucking glorious as it had been the day before and we were off to The Appian way. Our crew was smaller six this time not eight as Bear and I’s eldest sons both had other stuff to do. Our tour guide was Max, brother of Leo and co owner of the outfit. As we sorted our bikes (fun fact, you really have to have bikes with shockers when you are fanging around Rome because of the cobblestones) Max summed us up and quietly asked me if anyone was from Sydney. ‘No, we’re all from Melbourne’.

He let out a huge sigh of relief. ‘So no one from Sydney? Oh thank God. The people from Sydney their accent grates my brain.’

Then he did a high pitched nasal voice and said in one of those terrible Australian accents people do ‘Heeeelllloooo! Peeeerrrrfect.’

Sydney people have an accent? News to me but according to Max tour guide assured me they do.

The weather happened to be ‘peeeerrrrfect’. You can have fun travelling in all weather but beautiful weather truly does amplify your experience.

We took off though thought the back streets to the old Jewish ghetto over the road from the Portico of Octavia before stopping at the Baths of Caracalla.

For me Max, and our tour guide Arturo the night before had been a bit heavy on the info, but for others in the group they’d been a bit light on the info so they were probably just right. Peeerrrfffeeeect.

I have never been able to truly comprehend the centuries and millennia ancient buildings, statues and places have been around or, if truth be told, absorb their significance. It’s all impossible and incomprehensible to me. These ‘important places’ where ‘important things’ happened to ‘important people’ is too much to appreciate. Yes I can understand the words they are saying and yes I can count but after a certain point my brain reaches ‘peak important’ and all I can say is ‘Fucking amazing. Fucking does my head in.’

The most memorable ‘peak important’ moment was with Arturo the night before as he told us about the Colosseum and my brain was having a tantrum. The Colosseum has over 80 entrances and could accommodate about 50,000 spectators, there were bars, restaurants and it’s where the Romans invented the hamburger, at different times it had been a prison and a zoo, there were 36 trap doors in the arena allowing for elaborate special effects, Festivals as well as games could last up to 100 days, they would sometimes flood the Colosseum and have miniature ship naval battles inside for entertainment, 500,000 people lost their lives and over a million wild animals were killed throughout the duration of the people vs. beast games, the pope turned the fertile soil into a vineyard and made wine….

I was desperate to jam all this info in to no avail. I just stood muttering ‘fucking hell, fucking amazing, does my head in’. How the fuck did they do the design, building, engineering and infrastructure without the experience and technology we have now? All the fuck the had were pencils, paper and slaves. Where the fuck did they get the vision from? What fuelled their imagination and what was their motivation?

Rome is the city I have the most trouble truly comprehending. The whole place is an outdoor museum. I am so grateful and amazed when I consider all the people over centuries that have fought for the ruins, monuments and churches not to be absorbed by practicality. Rome is a huge bustling city. Surely people over the ages have fought to ‘Fuck this old bullshit off and whack in some homes, schools, hospitals and shops’ but peoples stood their ground and said ‘No. This is our history and culture.’ Sure it’s tourism now but the people who saw the importance in preserving it would never have known it would be teaming with tourists and the proceeds would be an integral part of their economy.

So we pedalled off to Appian Way and the Aqueducts though the main streets and it’s amazing how fast we were in the sweet gentle countryside.

The streets in Rome are bonkers. Max and Arturo had both said ‘Just follow me and be rude’. Navigating the Rome traffic you have to take the attitude of being a starving person standing behind a truck where someone is throwing out bread. You just push forward and elbow people out of the way to get what you want. Road rules are a suggestion, markings and signs are optional and no one takes it personally.

Riding through the sweet gentle country side of Italy with it’s soft air and light was delicious. European countryside gives you the familiar hit of nature with an dreamy otherness quality. Different plants, trees and smells. We stopped and filled our water with glorious naturally fizzy volcanic mineral water shoulder to shoulder with the locals filling crates. The Aqueducts and the Appian Way were amazing, incredible, incomprehensible and all those other things. The Appian Way is nearly 500 km long, starting from Rome, along the Tyrrhenian coast, crossing the lands of Campania and Basilicata and ending in Puglia. It was built in 312 BC. Yep. Brain exploded.

For me the trip was about being in the countryside on the bike and enjoying understanding the geometry of the city. Max told us stuff on stops and he was fairly lose with the jokes prefacing everyone with ‘I know this joke but I probably shouldn’t say it because I might offend someone…’ so we’d all beg for his dodgy jokes which would have managed please everyone wanting to be offended.

At about 2pm we landed back at the office dusty, hot, hungry and grateful. There was a little Osteria around the corner and we ate there. You can’t go wrong with the food in Italy, you really really can’t. After a few weeks travelling I usually start craving ‘home food’. But not in Italy. All they serve is Italy is home food.

We all headed off home for a rest before dinner and 16yo Hugo wanted to check out a hoodie at the Nike store. Out of my three sons he is the one most born to travel and it was apparent from a very young age. It was a half an hour walk with a detour to shop I had no interest in but the chat was light and lovely.

Our last night in Rome and Anthony caught up with his son who was heading off to Sicily and the rest of us nailed a reservation at a place Marz’s partner had heard of. One of those mythical true cultural travel brag experiences.

It was a restaurant near the Vatican run by nuns with no menu. You paid a set price and got what you got. This is where it’s very handy to be travelling with Marz who can speak Italian. He had missed Hugo’s birthday a few weeks before because he’d been in Italy so bought a birthday cake and a couple of bottles of prosecco for a celebration. When he made the reservation he asked the nuns if we could bring the cake and bubbles and sure, no problemo. Speaking another language is a fucking superpower.

I wandered up on my own (how good is it having Google maps and data for travel) and found the place – Fraterna Domus. I was buzzed in and sat in austere waiting room with a marble floor that smelt of holy water, genuflecting and bleach. I was a little early so I stickybeaked for a while. It was apparent you could also stay there for those who’d like to sleep in monastic rooms with religious icons watching over you.

Marz, his partner and the boys arrived and we were taken downstairs to a simple room full of long wooden tables and chairs with white tablecloths. Despite being a basement room it was bright and buzzy. We had a delicious super tradition meal of soup, pasta and a meat dish with water and wine served by smiling nuns. The food looked nothing special but tasted extraordinary. Then they turned the lights off. WTF. Did we have to pray now? Is their surprise litugical dancing? No. It was a smiling nun starting a rousing chorus of happy birthday in Italian for Hugo and the whole room sang along. They had even managed to find the number 16 in candles for the cake.

We shared the cake with the others in the restaurant and the nuns. It was one of those very very special travel nights.

As we walked up the stairs to leave we got to the ground level and there was a door ajar. Inside a perfect and exquisite chapel that would sit 40 adorned in incredible art hundreds of years old. If only those walls could talk.

We walked home and said good-bye. The boys were off with Marz to head south for a couple of weeks and Bear and I hit the sack for our belated two week Love Party Honeymoon Adventure. Plane from Rome Airport leaving 7.45am. Up at 5am. In an Uber at 5.30 then dropped off at the ‘Kiss and Go’ zone.

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Part Two. More Rome.

I loathe the term ‘my ex’. It has a combination of rejection/repulsion/repelsion (I know, I couldn’t work out the nominalisation for repel so I made it up because fuck the police) and possession. ‘This person and I have rejected each other but we are bound together for eternity’.

I abhor the term ‘marital status’ and the demands that we answer the question even more. Not only is it irrelevant – contact person, yes, marital status, no – all status options are in relation to marriage. Married = yes, divorced = not any more, single = not yet, widowed = DON’T TOUCH ME I’M FINE, separated = fucked if I know what’s going on but I’m still up for flirting. Putting the status back into marital status. Anti-marriage people should ponder the ranking of relationships and how it enables homophobia by meditating on the term ‘marriage status’ just for a jiffy.

So my son’s dad and my former partner Marz turned 60 this year and this time last year he said ‘I’m thinking of taking the boys to Italy for my birthday.’ ‘Great idea!’ I said. I called him back a few minutes later and said ‘Hey, why don’t you take them to Italy and I’ll take them to Ireland?’ He loved the idea but hates organizing travel, luckily his partner and I both love it. So the idea was joked about, spoken about, decided upon and in the spirit of ‘we’re not a blended family we’re a splendid family’ the balls were in motion. Our kids, our partners and a couple of our partners’ kids.

First stop was to hook up in Rome, I’d hand over the boys (Marz and his partner had already been in Italy for a fortnight) we’d all hang out for a couple of days and then Bear and I would do our own thing for a few weeks and afterwards the boys would meet Bear and me in Berlin.

A few years ago the boys all got an overseas trip, The 19yo went on exchange to Japan as a 16yo, the 14yo travelled with Bear and me to London, Paris, Amsterdam and Singapore as an 11yo and the 16yo went to New York with Marz, his partner and her son a few days after his 15th birthday.

When Marz and I were together we travelled a lot in Asia with the boys when they were little. Bali, Lombok, Thailand, Vanuatu, Borneo, Vietnam. It was cheap, hot, there were pools, ice creams, animals and crazy modes of transport through dinky towns, bustling cities, muddy countrysides, rice fields and tropical forests. I was always keen to travel, Marz was keen too but would be the first to admit he’s not the most relaxed traveler.

A week before we all left to Rome the 14yo and I were talking about his highlights of the last European trip and he mentioned the night bike ride through Paris. We are all regular riders so I Googled bike tours in Rome, found REX Bike Tours. We locked in a Rome City night tour (all the sights) the night after we arrived and then the next morning a day tour along the Appian Way.

The weather was perfect and the eight of us rocked up to the Rex office at 5pm where we were met by two devastatingly handsome and charming German-Italian brothers Leopold and Massimo who run the outfit. We hopped on our bikes (under 18s had to wear helmets, for adults optional) and took off with our guide; the blonde, easygoing and informative, Arturo.

We hadn’t planned to do the night bike tour in Paris in 2014. When we landed our mate, Jess, who is a manager of a tour company in Paris suggested it. I always try to ride bikes wherever I am but I had never been on a tour. The night Paris tour with Fat Tire Tours – Paris was one of my all time travel highlights.

If you can ride a bike the first thing you should do when you rock up to a new city is to get on a bike tour. Nothing helps you orient a new city like a bike ride with a tour guide.

You whirl though the streets getting a feel for the layout of the city as you fly in 3D through the space. Buses and walking are too slow for me. I get isolated locations but they don’t really relate with each other. Bike riding is always my perfect speed to experience a new city. I don’t feel like I have ‘got’ the city till I have ridden its streets. Riding feels like a flipbook of the city. I imagine it’s a bit like speed-reading. You can get across the basics really fast and then you can tack back if you want more details.

We did over a dozen stops on those two hours, my ex, our kids, his partner, my partner and his partner’s son. It was a Sunday night so it was chockers but we wove our way in single file as if we were on a piece of string along cobblestone lanes, footpaths, piazzas and busy main roads.

It was a warm autumn Sunday night and the streets were packed with people sucking up the last of the rays of summer. We covered Piazza Navova, century-old back street frescos, a tiny church full of art that had three Caravaggios, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Coliseum… sing along if you know the words.

I can’t explain the euphoria of the warm night, the first day of travel, being in Rome, the relief of finally landing, successful navigation of the trip from home to another country and seeing your kids on bikes on the other side of the world gob-smacked, amazed and finally thinking the horrific 24 hour flight was worth it.

In the same way planning a trip is like circling in from up high, a bike tour where I don’t have to navigate is the reverse; it’s as if I am taking off from ground, slowly finding my feet, the directing of wind and absorbing the lay of the land.

We landed back at the bike tour office and split into the exhausted and jetlagged, who headed straight back home, and the full of beans people up for food. Bear, his son Roo, my 14yo and I ended up at a chaotic joint suggested by Arturo called Pizzeria Montecarlo. The place was jumping, the service was abrupt, the food was delicious and I was quite taken by the signs everywhere telling us we were forbidden to use mobile phones because it interfered with the pizza ovens.

We wandered home buzzing through the warm streets and flopped onto the bed grinning from ear to ear, smug as fuck and amazed at how much we had managed to cover in one day. We didn’t plan to chock it in but go with the flow. And so it flowed. Some days are like that.

I kept reflecting on how happy I was, how lucky we were and how I fucking loved travel. I was constantly aware how our health and fitness was a massive, massive part of the enjoyment of the day. Yes we look after ourselves but you can only do so much. No amount of wellness, self care and physical activity can guarantee being mobile, pain free and mentally well.

When I did the Trans-Siberian express as a 24yo I made a pact with myself to travel as much as I could while my body was able.

As exhilarated as I was by the food, weather, culture, history, exercise, food, laughs (Is this the Paris end of Rome?), all being together on the other side of the world, that sense of achievement you get from successfully accomplishing travel plans, exceeding your wildest expectations and our total lack of jetlag, it was breaking The Marcia Hines Record with my Fitbit total for the day of 38,735 steps (26.73 kilometres) was what had me declare day one on Rome my best travel day ever.

I’ll let Michael Lallo explain what the Marcia Hines Record is in the comments.

No sore feet but a little sunburn. We even managed a shag before we conked out.

 

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Part One. Rome.

Despite the fact I fucking love travel and it’s when I feel the most alive there are many moments the week before a trip like this I ask myself WHAT THE FUCK ARE YOU DOING? The lead up was a week of constant grind; packing, sorting, cleaning and organising threaded through normal work and domestic stuff along with Hugo and Bear’s birthdays and the celebrations that go along with that. I love big projects, one woman shows, writing books, The Love Party etc and I know this is part of the project. When you find yourself saying WHAT THE FUCK WERE YOU THINKING? you know you’re almost there.

Skiing is a perfect example of it. You’re up early, packed and have locked up the house. You get up the mountain which involves hours and an often chains, insane weather, traffic jams, car sickness, navigation rage and frayed nerves. You are then finally at ‘the snow’ which is the closest thing to being on the moon. You trudge to the ski gear hire place scratchy eyed, dry mouthed and in a room that smells of damp and foot odour you are fitted out with heavy cumbersome boots you lug back through the snow to where you are staying, balancing skis and poles over your shoulder and carrying what feels like 15 kilo boots in the other hand with the straps cutting into your fingers. After mashing the accoutrements/weapons/mobility aids into the locker and then wrestling yourself and sometimes children into layers of ski gear you then gather your stocks, skis, gloves, hats, lift passes, phone, goggles and money and finally jam and lock your feet and ankles into heavy boots with steel mouse traps on the soles. It’s at that point I am always huffing and puffing as I stand up facing the snow outside and feel sweat pouring down my back and I haven’t even hit the snow.

My self talk response to WHAT THE FUCK AM I THINKING? is looking around and seeing all the others who have endured the massive ordeal today, over history and to look around at the huge amount of infrastructure built for this ‘fun’ activity. I activate all my amazing memories of skiing and reassure myself no, I am not making them up. Ovary up, push forward and soldier on. And of course, it’s brilliant. After I have reached the Got My Money’s Worth moment the rest of the time I think about what a doddle it all is, wonder why more people don’t do it and start planning the next adventures.

Planning a one month trip involving five countries, ten destinations and 11 people is a little like spinning plates and herding cats while fucking a spider. You circle in from up high, decide to do it, pick the departure and arrival date, book the return ticket tossing up cost with ridiculous departure times, horrifying lay overs, and long flight times. You then slowly fill out the detail until you have flights, transport, accommodation, travel insurance, packing list, house and animals sorted, work on hold and ‘oh shit we probably should sort international drivers licences and FUCK are all our passports valid and JESUS I haven’t even checked if we need visas or not.’

I am an experienced traveller and chaos wrangler so I know not everything will go to plan. Ever. You’ll have good days, shit days, brilliant days and days where the wheels completely fall off and other days when magical things happen. Then there are the mercurial days when the mood flips on the head of a pin. A shit day comes good and an amazing day curdles. The more people involved and the longer the trip the more variables involved. Perhaps that’s why it makes me feel so alive. You can only manage and predict so much. Occasionally trips are shit. Very occasionally the whole trip is a total write off. I have been a very lucky traveller That’s why when I am at that WHAT THE FUCK AM I THINKING? place I remember the ‘I’ve got my money’s worth’ point. That’s the point when everything else is a bonus.

So we all arrived in Rome on Saturday night at 9.30pm. By 1.30pm Sunday I’d reached the I’ve Got My Money’s Worth. By 6pm Sunday I’d decided it was the best travel day of my life.

The motivation behind the trip I’ll explain later but the boys dad Marz picked us all up from the airport in a black Beyonce’s entourage van and after a drink and some antipasto with Marz and his lovely partner in their Airbnb Bear and I were installed in our little apartment over the road. I don’t know what the area was called but we were on Via Guiseppe Ferrari. Despite thinking as we were leaving for the airport from home at 1.30am that a 5am flight was one of my most bananas ideas it was indeed a flash of genius. We hit the sack, slept for 8 hours and woke rip roaring and ready to tear Rome a new one.

Coffee. We started to wander and we weren’t seeing anything I was crazy about but the more we walked the more we were gagging for it. I have a travel rule; never eat anywhere more than once and make every meal count. Bear points to a place with plastic chairs out the front, a bain marie inside and a drinks fridge behind the counter. ‘Here looks good’ to which I responded ‘No fucking way’. We got a whiff of wifi and found a few places nearby, one that had been named one of the top coffee bars in Rome. Sciascia Caffè. I used my patchy Italian to order coffee and a couple of toasted ham and cheese paninis. We absorbed our breakfast as the Romans wafted in and out and then we wandered the empty streets. I have been to Rome before but had forgotten or not realised how beautiful it is. I find the Italian soft air and soft light intoxicating. Rome has a smell too. I can’t describe it. History, coffee and cleaning products.

We wandered for hours through the relatively empty streets and down along the river inhaling the place. The weather was perfect. There was a marathon being run so there were there heaps of hot cops about. Also a LOT of hot young priests. At one stage a well dressed middle aged guy started yelling out of a moving car asking us if we knew where a florist was. He pulled up and we told him we weren’t Italian. He then regaled us with his terrible morning it was his wedding anniversary and his wife (she’s Tasmanian) cried because he hadn’t bought her flowers and the florist near the hotel wouldn’t take American Express and there was a marathon being run so he couldn’t get anywhere because the streets had been blocked off…

He said he was like a manager for Ferrari or something and asked if we had any cash on us. Keep in mind this guy was super well dressed and driving a fairly expensive car. ‘No Euros’ I said ‘just Australian dollars’. ‘Can you give me a hundred? I can go back to the florist she’ll take any cash and if you do I’ll give you this gift.’ He reached onto his passenger side and said ‘You can have this, but you have to promise not to sell it.’ In the padded box was a Ferrari watch, wallet, pen and torch. I had already decided to give the guy my last Australian $50 before he handed over the Ferrari gift box. He sped off telling us we were super nice. We laughed and laughed. There is NO chance this was a rort. Who would come up with such a far fetched scam where they drove up to strangers, asked for foreign currency and then gave them a Ferrari gift box with the word Fancy in gilded letters on the lid of the box.

We decided to go to the Vatican. Bear is a bit crazy for The Young Pope and sometimes he thinks he actually is the Pontiff and makes us call him Holy Father. I checked out what was on at the Vatican and low and behold the Pope was addressing the folks at noon. We rocked up to find, the whole of St Peter’s square surrounded by military and x ray machines. It was impossible to get into the square without the equivalent of an airport security check. Really? What’s with the security? Where’s your all powerful God? So your prayers aren’t working any more.

The square was packed. Il Pappa didn’t address from the usual balcony but from what appeared to be his bedroom with a maroon bath towel with gold letters emblazoned on it hanging out the window. Talk about can’t be fucked. The crowd went wild. I can speak a little Italian and could make out he talked about the sickness of the world a lot. At the end he did a shout out to certain groups in the crowd Romper Room Style ‘Hello to the Sisters Of The Saucepans From Colombia, to the Legion Of Mary from Boston, to the Parish Of The Holy Spirit from Galway….’ As you could imagine the groups he names fully lost their holy shit.

We walked away past the hawkers selling rosary beads, selfie sticks and shorts with the statue of David’s cock printed on them, the beggars and the tour groups. I looked back at the religious metropolis and thought ‘What a fucking rort’.

We passed one of the free drinking fountains you find all over the streets of Rome. I had been hanging out to drink the water. The last time I was in in Rome was 1994 and drinking it was like a magical elixir. Dear god it’s the sweetest water I have ever tasted. We wandered around trying to find a place to lunch. We passed a guy shooting up and dead rat as we raved to each other about how magical and beautiful Rome was.

The place our mate suggested to eat wasn’t open but we stumbled onto a gorgeous very traditional trattoria full of Italian families. We passed tables groaning with food sat down and ordered from a slightly dishevelled waiter our age who managed to understand my pigeon Italian. We were staving. The food and wine arrived and as I demolished the most perfect meal I could have wished for I felt like crying with joy. It was at that moment I thought ‘I’ve got my money’s worth.’

We were wandering back home though the bustling streets full of happy people and sunshine for a nap and a shag when Bear’s son Reuben, his partner and her sister messaged us, told us they were at a place near the Spanish Steps and to come and have a drink. They’d only arrived the day before, so we stumbled in to them in the back streets sitting out the front of a cantina. There was hugs, kisses and little shrieks. Bear was thrilled beyond measure. The joy of having a drink with one of your grown up children who was now a traveller and just rocks up to Rome by their steam when they hear you’re in town.

I have always told my sons everything i have learned has been from travel, working in catering and living with people.

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Feminism in Twelve Easy Lessons

LESSON NUMBER ONE

Beware of anyone using the words ‘respect’, ‘traditional’, ‘family values’, ‘honour’, ‘unacceptable’, ‘morality’, ‘uncalled for’, ‘inappropriate’, ‘unnecessary’ or ‘offensive’.
Particularly beware of the word offensive.

It’s code for ‘Pipe down princess, back in your box’.

Offence is taken not given and more harm is created by taking offence than giving it.

Offence is subjective.
Just because you are offended does not mean you are right. You’re offended? Block, unfriend, change the channel, switch stations, turn the page, talk to someone else or call the wahmbulance. No one has the right not to be offended.

Offence is used as a mode of social control. Do not be oppressed by feeling you’re supposed to lie down in some chalk outline drawn for you by a society that once upon a time would have burned you at the stake for such unladylike behaviour. Now all they can do is accuse you of transgressing some social norm constructed by the patriarchy to put you in your place. And the reason you have to be put or kept in your place is in order to fortify their place. And their place would be the one with disproportionate access to power, control, decisions, leisure, money and the ability to control women’s bodies.

Watch language. Language is a friend to joint destroyers. Men have opinions, women are opinionated; men speak, women are outspoken; men are passionate, women rant; men have mouths, women are mouthy; and when was the last time you heard a man called feisty, bitter, sassy or shrill?

As Laurel Thatcher Ulrich said, Well-behaved women seldom make history.

LESSON NUMBER TWO

You are not imagining it. You are not overreacting. Women are not being listened to, and when they are heard they are told they are dominating. Not only are they discouraged from speaking, when a woman does speak and is not enabling the patriarchy, she is used as a human piñata to set an example for others and keep them in their place.

Twenty years ago I came across a cartoon, which I have kept in front of my desk ever since. And it is as true now as it was then. The scene is a boardroom table. Five balding men in suits. One woman. The caption? ‘That’s an excellent suggestion, Miss Triggs. Perhaps one of the men here would like to make it.’ I’ve always said I wished there was a scientific way to prove that women who colour outside the lines cop a thousand times more vitriol and it’s a thousand times more vicious. There is. I appeared on Q&A in 2012 with Anglican archbishop, Peter Jensen, and copped a bucket load. Academic, historian and writer Chrys Stevenson undertook a detailed study into that particular episode.

‘According to comments on the #qanda Twitter stream, Deveny is: an ugly, extremist, stupid, unintelligent, idiotic, thoughtless, self-righteous, self-centred, self-absorbed, nasty, confused, frustrated, bitter, twisted, humourless, unfunny, unreasonable, unrespectable, disrespectful, sarcastic, mocking, catty, hateful, boorish, blustering, bullying bitch.

‘What’s more, she is: combative, vicious, shouty, loud- mouthed, arrogant, aggressive, angry, abrasive, childish, silly, garbled, inarticulate, intolerant, hypocritical, pathetic, disgraceful, disgusting, rude, condescending, bigoted, preachy, patronising, dogmatic, offensive, immoral, discriminatory and “up herself”.’

According to the mob, which included everything from private messages to national broadsheet newspaper editorials, I ‘rudely talked over fellow panellists, shouted, yelled and dominated the conversation’.

Stevenson not only found Peter Jensen spoke twice the amount of words as I did (his 36% to my 17%) but we both interjected/interrupted four times each, host Tony Jones only asked me to speak four times and asked Jensen eight, and I was asked twice to ‘keep it brief’.

Stevenson consulted an audio engineer, who found my voice was at the same consistent level as the other panellists and the host. And she ascertained my contributions were argued eloquently, politely, passionately and tolerantly.

So what was my crime? Until recently, the Powers That Be, the Masters of the Universe, the Captains of Industry and The Gatekeepers of Information have been able to control who says what, how and where. And it seems us Joint Destroyers are really taking the jam out of their donuts. Keep in mind they are still the ones with the donuts.

LESSON NUMBER THREE

Collect statistics. Keep statistics. Use statistics. Spread statistics.
The following week on Q&A, Liberal MP Christopher Pyne interrupted the host and other panellists a total of 34 times. And no one, apart from Chrys Stevenson, mentioned it, which is the only reason I know how many times the mincing poodle ejaculated into the show.

Dale Spender coined the ‘one third rule’ in her book Man- Made Language. As soon as women are: more than one third of the speakers at a conference; more than one third of the members of the house; more than a third of the authors on the review pages of the papers; or one-third the contribution to the conversations the impression is – for both genders – that women are taking over.1

In late 2012, Chrys Stevenson completed research into how women are represented in Australian newspapers and found, by her comprehensive byline count and content analysis, the percentage of stories written by women with women as the subject, quoting women or using women as an expert or in the photo is between 20% and 30%, similar to findings from separate investigations all over the world.

LESSON NUMBER FOUR

It is about numbers. Be aware of the Gender Adjusted Representation Scale.

Here’s part of a piece I wrote for International Women’s Day for The Age newspaper in 2009:

This newspaper itself reflects the ingrained gender imbalance in media. It’s not uncommon for the opinion page to feature a middle-aged, middle-class white man in a suit, followed by another middle-aged, middle-class white man in a suit, followed by another middle-aged, middle-class white man in a suit, followed by Peter Costello. Of the last 69 opinion pieces published by The Age newspaper, only thirteen have been written by women. Four from The New York Times’ Maureen Dowd and of the nine left, only three had opinions. The other six were just ‘sharing experiences’. And why, with the ratio of 56 men’s voices to every thirteen women’s on the page, is it not called ‘A Men’s Page’. Because if you inverted the numbers and it was thirteen men’s voices and 56 women’s I can guarantee it would be called ‘A Women’s Page’.

Time and time again when a typical television show, opinion page, radio station, court bench, ballot paper, board table, conference or church altar has a line-up of 80%, 90%, sometimes 100% middle-aged middle-class rich white straight (or acting), god-fearing (or pretending) men I ask people to subvert the gender balance to the same ratio of women. It then becomes clear that if this really were the case it would be considered a women’s show, newspaper, radio station, political party, company board or religion. Why are people so blind and/or accepting and consequently enabling of such discrimination?

If aliens came down they would take one look around and have no other choice but to make the assumption rich old white men were the smartest people on the planet.

Panel shows are perfect microcosms of the accepted gender bias. The ratio is about one woman to every four men. The one female gives an illusion of equality, which shows how accustomed we are to the token nod. One woman, it seems, is equal to four men, if you’re lucky. I call it the Gender Adjusted Representation Scale.

You call it when you see it, Destroyers.

LESSON NUMBER FIVE

Don’t just look at numbers look at the culture.
The all-women morning show The Circle used to regularly get mentioned when gender representation and women’s voices come up. People held it up like proof there is equality.

Of course, The Circle was axed. Why?

Again, beware the Gender Adjusted Representation Scale.

OK, The Circle. One show. From the hundreds on air every week. On at nine in the morning. The female presenters were expected to be bubbly, pleasant and not at all controversial. The show was promoted as a little bit opinionated on a few inconsequential topics. But it was mostly, ‘Later in the show we’ll be talking to Marina Prior about her workout tips and after the break we will be cooking cupcakes for our audience of pregnant mummies!’

What? From Egypt?

The Circle was promoted as smart and relevant, the Australian version of The View. Which it most certainly was not. But it was most certainly smarter and more relevant than any ‘women’s show’ in Australian television history and its foreseeable future. The Circle was a good house in a bad street.

The show’s marketing spin told us the women were smart, opinionated and funky. The reality is they are far, far more fabulous off screen. If the presenters were allowed to be themselves on screen the show would have been called ‘provocative, controversial and offensive’ and, let’s face it, wouldn’t have made it to air. The choice of women and the limited versions of themselves they were permitted to show is a perfect example of the Smurfette Principle and goes part of the way to illustrate how women are less likely to support each other professionally because of the perception there are only a few spots for a female and only certain kinds of women need apply.

If there is only one ‘women’s show’ on television (which, if one show is described as a ‘women’s show’ the rest are, therefore by default, ‘men’s shows’), why these women? And why this show? And even more curious, why when there is only one ‘women’s show’ on Australian television, when one presenter goes on maternity leave (Gorgi Coghlan) they have a guy (Colin Lane) fill in?

So The Circle was axed late 2012 because, despite its popularity, Network Ten had to cut costs and it was cheaper axing the whole show than getting out of a six-figure contract with unpopular breakfast host Paul Henry. An amount they never would have agreed to pay a woman.

Having The Circle was fine. We just need as much variety and diversity of women’s shows and women on television as men and ‘men’s’ shows.

But don’t just count the women, look at how they are expected to be, look, act and respond. How integral are they? I recently did a presentation on Women in Australian Television. The title was ‘Garnish’. That’s what women in Australian television are. Not the meal, the garnish.

LESSON NUMBER SIX

What all women should be encouraged to achieve is FOS: Fuck Off Status.
When I was nineteen, I met a woman called Patricia O’Donnell, who I am still buddies with today. O’Donnell is a successful restaurateur, businesswoman and all-round brilliant. When I was nineteen, she didn’t know me. But I was sitting at the bar of her establishment, The Queenscliff, waiting for some of my mates, her staff. She said to me, apropos of nothing, ‘You know what you need, young lady? You need Fuck Off Status. You need to have your house, and your business and be able to tell anyone you don’t want to deal with to fuck off.’

Best advice I have ever been given. We need to encourage all women and girls to aim for Fuck Off Status – not to dream of just marrying a footballer – and encourage all men and boys to enable and support it.

Women are 50% of the population, do two thirds of the work, earn 10% of the money and own 1% of the land. What do we want? Fuck Off Status! When do we want it? Yesterday!

And while we are on tips, I am often asked what tip I would give women wanting to be successful, so here they are:

  1. Stand for something.
  2. Never have any more children or any larger mortgagethan you could manage on your own.
  3. Use public schools, public healthcare and supportpublic housing and affordable, accessible, high-quality childcare and the rights of carers and the disabled. All these things enable number 4.
  4. Aim for Fuck Off Status. I got mine in December 2012, aged 44, when I finally had a mortgage and a house title in my name alone.

LESSON NUMBER SEVEN

Don’t buy the argument that women have less because we live in a meritocracy.
We don’t. It’s sexism.

I can’t walk out my door without tripping over a woman who has something to say. And could – brilliantly, passionately, articulately and repetitively in print, on telly, or on the radio. No problem. Given the chance. Or lead in government, corporations, the law or religion. Given the chance. So why aren’t they given the chance? Because they’re women.

It’s not a meritocracy. It’s sexism.

LESSON NUMBER EIGHT

Don’t placate strangers.

Women out alone attract a huge amount of unwanted attention. If there is a drunk, nutter, pissed bogan or sleaze, they will hassle the woman on her own. They will walk past the group of tradies, the bunch of old women, the couple on the bench, the young man in a suit, and pester or inflict themselves in ways that always appear to be random and spontaneous outbursts.

You don’t have to feel sorry for any drunk, nutter, pissed bogan or sleaze, or be kind to them or nice to them or excuse them as pissed, old or deranged. You do not have to give directions to, have a conversation with, tell the time to anyone, if you don’t want to. You do not have to be kind or nice if you don’t want to. Why do we so often override our own unease only to find ourselves in a vulnerable position?

If a stranger walks up to you and wants the time, directions, spare change or a chat and you don’t want to interact, don’t.

You never have to engage with strangers. It’s another form of harassment.

Here’s how to avoid finding yourself involved in unwanted conversations, even those that begin harmlessly enough: always have a line up your sleeve to nip unwanted intrusions in the bud. Don’t let them escalate into annoyances or into huge liberties taken by a stranger – or worse.

Here’s mine: ‘Sorry brother, I’m in a hurry.’
And just keep walking.
If they persist I just tell them in a deep and low voice to fuck off.

I know we shouldn’t have to need to do this but how many times have we been nice and kind – our default setting – and finding ourselves in an unpleasant, annoying or unsafe place with a total fucking stranger.

I am very friendly. I see men as brothers not predators, I routinely give directions, spare change, a loan of my phone and even the odd dink to guys I don’t know. But I use my instinct, which, like a muscle that gets flexed, is very strong.

Don’t feel sorry for them if you don’t want to. Let someone else. If these random guys really are losers, drunks or nutters, why are they always so able to contain their unwanted attention until when they come across a woman on her own?

Fuck that.

LESSON NUMBER NINE

Do not assume a woman in a powerful position is automatically a feminist.
And do not assume a male in a powerful position is necessarily a misogynist.

I have had as many males as females support me in my life and career and as many females as males be obstructive.

Where did the assumption come from that patriarchy advantages all men and disadvantages all women? Plenty of women – many of whom present themselves as champions of women, see editors of women’s magazines for further examples – are actually utter chauvinists and sexist creeps bursting with internalised misogyny and being rewarded for it. These women have joined what they consider the only game in town in an attempt to get power, position and privilege.

According to Germaine Greer: ‘The present condition of men is nothing to aspire to.’ Greer also asserts feminism is the last great revolution and reckons the women’s liberation movement hasn’t even begun.

Patriarchy damages us all and the axis of evil – patriarchy, religion and the state – is being dismantled, dissolved and detonated at an unprecedented rate by the holy trinity of atheism, feminism and the internet. But the axis of evil is still putting up quite a fight. It was never going to be easy.

The truth is, there is not one feminism, but many feminisms. And just because you are pro women does not mean you are anti men. In fact, I think one of the main reasons I am a feminist is because I love boys and men so much and I have hated the way society has expected them to live, love and be. Feminism is not anti men. It’s anti arseholes, misogynists, pricks, creeps, thugs and bigots.

LESSON NUMBER TEN

Clothes don’t turn women and girls into sluts. We do.

The most dangerous place for a woman is in her own home and she is most likely to be injured, abused, raped or killed by a man she is related or married to.

Babies get raped; old ladies get raped; boys get raped; men get raped.

Clothes have nothing to do with it.
There is only one cause of rape. And that’s rapists.
If anyone tells you not to walk the streets alone or take care or to be scared or to get a man to walk you to your car, you say, ‘Don’t tell me not to walk my streets. Tell people not to rape me.’

What is a slut? I’d like to get a series of pictures of a female from birth to old age: a baby, toddler, school girl, teenager, young adult, pregnant, with her children, mature, aging, each wearing the normal transition of clothing, and ask people to point to pictures in which she looks like a slut.

What is a slut? A woman who likes sex? Wants sex? Has had a lot of sex? Who dresses in short skirts, high heels and low-cut tops? What is the definition of a lot, short, high and low?

So what if we could all agree on the universal definition of the word slut and we could accurately identify a slut? So what? Women should be able to do what they want and expect not to be judged, shamed or punished for it. And if they are, they need to speak out.

Women have the right to wear what they want, enjoy sex and have sex with as many people as they like.

There is nothing wrong with being a slut. Whatever that is.

Clothes are not safe or unsafe. People are.

When I asked my boyfriend if he was coming to Slutwalk with me, he said, ‘Sure. ’Cause you’re not allowed to rape sluts either.’ Couldn’t have said it better myself.

BONUS LESSON

Listen to the gospel according to Gloria.

The truth will set you free. But first, it will piss you off.

Gloria Steinem

Any woman who chooses to behave like a full human being should be warned that the armies of the status quo will treat her as something of a dirty joke. That’s their natural and first weapon. She will need her sisterhood.

Gloria Steinem

I’ve yet to be on a campus where most women aren’t worrying about some aspect of combining marriage, children and a career. I’ve yet to find one where many men were worrying about the same thing.

Gloria Steinem

LESSON NUMBER ELEVEN

Loving your body exactly the way it is is an act of civil disobedience. Do it.
Sometimes I think people are most offended by my confidence in who I am and how I look. The fact I am not just happy but thrilled with who I am. The absence of self-deprecation and apology for not fitting into their idea of who I should be. And how I should feel about it.

Someone out there would kill to have your body. Seriously, they would. And the owner of the body that you would kill to have is probably as dissatisfied with their body as you are with yours. Same goes with level of health, amount of money, value of assets you own, troubles you have.

Let’s stage a coup on dissatisfaction. The constant portrayal of the skinny, teenage, heterosexual, white and able body as the ‘only’ desirable body is unfair and untrue. I’m furious with people who manipulate the world to make women feel not good enough. And even more furious with women for being sucked in to it.

It’s a choice between fear and love. A choice. You choose.

I watch people look at old photos of themselves and exclaim, ‘I looked so slim, so young and so gorgeous! No wonder the fellas were gagging for me back then! I had no idea at the time how beautiful I was. I wished I’d known and just enjoyed it. I hated my ankles and thought my skin was too blotchy and my body too fat.’

Women seem to go through life always thinking they are not good enough. There will be a moment in our lives when we will be the prettiest, the thinnest and the happiest we’ll ever be, but we will never know when it is.

I was in a supermarket once and I saw this skinny, withered old woman, maybe 75, flicking through a magazine called Slimmers, and I wanted to tap her on the shoulder and say, ‘When are you going to stop worrying? You are good enough.’

I have only been thin twice in my life, when I had cancer and when I was suffering severe depression. It was awful. I would have paid a million bucks to be twenty kilos bigger and happier.

Stop buying those women’s magazines – they are self- loathing manuals. Buy clothes you love, that you look and feel great in and surround yourself with images of diverse body shapes.

Loving your body is about feeling well and healthy.

LESSON NUMBER TWELVE

Who we should remember and how we should try to be remembered.

Hi Catherine,

I don’t know if you remember the end of an International Women’s Day lunch you did at Monash University a couple of years ago, where a young lady at the end asked a question about ‘what was going to happen to me?’ etc., etc. I was that chick. At the time I was working part time, trying to finish my thesis, and looking after a baby (and in a shit relationship) – the works. I actually wasn’t even attending the lunch – technically I was working, handing out sandwiches.

You answered my question so well, quoting Winston Churchill (‘when you find yourself in hell, just keep going’). And you gave me the flowers that were presented to you after giving your talk.

I thought I’d drop you a line to let you know I’ve just finished my PhD thesis – the bound copies are on my desk now. After I submit them to the Chair of Examiners I’ll be well and truly done with it.

Thank you for those words that day. I did keep going and things did get better. Hope everything in your work and life is truly good.

I can’t say how much that unexpected little interaction turned things around for me – I felt very brave that afternoon. I’m so happy I’ve had this opportunity to thank you.

Warmest wishes,

Jane.

I have written many of these letters myself and also received a few. When I met Patricia O’Donnell again for the first time twenty years after meeting her when I was nineteen, I opened my greeting with ‘you probably don’t remember me but you told me to aim for Fuck Off Status’.

She didn’t remember me. But her words made such a huge impact on my life.

We have to support each other, brothers and sisters. Start where you are, do what you can, with what you have. When you don’t know what to do, do anything.

Don’t ask for your rights. That suggests someone else has the power to grant them.

Demand your rights.

This was originally published in Destroying the Joint: Why Women Have To Change the World edited by Jane Caro. 
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Why aren’t men changing their name after marriage?

An invoice was mailed to me and my boyfriend recently — it was addressed to Catherine and Anthony Deveny.

And yet I have never married, nor changed my surname. Neither has he.

I was repelled. Why, in 2017, do we still assume that a man and a woman who share a home must also share the same name?

It is likely because women are still choosing to take their husband’s surname when they get married.

In Australia, for example, more than 80 per cent of women take their husband’s surname after marriage, while in the United States, a whopping 94 per cent of women do.

Indeed, Australian pop singer Kylie Minogue revealed last week that she, too, plans to take her fiancé’s name when they marry because, she said, “Taking a different name makes a statement”.

“Sasse is a great name,” Minogue said of her partner Joshua’s surname. “Kylie Sasse … is a great stage name. Minogue has never exactly tripped off the tongue.”

But why are women really (and I mean really) choosing to take their husband’s surname when they marry?

 

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